Another GVWR Travel trailer question
Sorry but here is another weight question. I've been towing our 33 ft TT with a Ford F-250 so towing is no problem. My question concerns TT GVWR. Loaded to camp with 2 empty grey ranks and ap...
Forum Discussion
Hi again, on the truck WD settings
As you are learning your way through this, you have a very good truck for your camper. Congrats!
However there this more to setting the WD hitch then the truck being level. A level truck is not necessarily a good criteria to use as to what is considered proper WD on the truck. If it comes out that way, great. But the stance of the truck is secondary, the weight change on the front axle and what is left on the rear axle is the need.
In your case you have plenty of rear axle capacity so that is not a problem. The front axle however can have issues with excessive sliding in slippery conditions if too much weight is removed with a camper pushing you. They call this understeer.
And too heavy a front axle when towing a camper can have a negative effect too. The front end can bite in so to speak and not slip sending you into a jackknife real fast, again when a camper is pushing you in a turn. They call this oversteer.
Under and Over Steer
The goal with a WD hitch and a camper is to be between those 2 extremes, make sure you are not overloading your rear axle, the truck receiver, and not have the front end too light or too heavy.
Notice I did not mention the stance of the truck. My F350 has a california rake to it. The back end is sky high unhitched, your F250 having lighter rear springs has less rear high but still your truck, and mine are made that the rear axle can carry the entire payload of the truck. The difference with the camper is, the rear overhang is about 65" from the center of the rear axle to the tow ball if you have the short bed. A long bed truck that rear overhang can be even longer. The loaded camper on the tow ball affects the truck axles different than just raw bed weight.
To declare proper WD on the truck we need to talk front axle weights and or front and rear axle fender heights. We will start with the fender heights. Load the truck with camping gear the way you will go camping. This sets the truck at a natural stance with no camper. Record the front and rear fender heights measuring up through the center of the tire on a hard level surface. Ground up through the center of the tire, then to the inside fender. This is set 1.
Then hitch up the camper and just let the raw loaded camper hang on the tow ball. No WD bars engaged yet. Record that number for front and rear fender heights. This is set 2
Then engage the WD bars. Now record that number for front and rear fender heights. This is set 3.
Compare the numbers. The front axle height should be at the 1/2 way point between set 1 and set 2 or up to being equal to set 1 with the WD bars are engaged but beyond and lower then set 1. This is call front axle load restoration, FALR. They want the front axle between 50% to max of 100% load restored with the WD hitch settings. They give you some room to move in between.
On my F350 I am more in the 75 to 80% restored and it is a gasser too and I find this tows well like this. The front it not too bouncy/bobbing from being too light, the steering feels solid and I'm inside all by axle and receiver ratings. At 100% restored on mine, that is not good either are the back of the truck is not as solid left to right. Your F250 and your bed loads may be a little different. There is trial and error to the settings to hit the sweet spot.
For your 2017 F250 look on page 283 under Weight-distributing Hitches and it describes the basics I talked to above.
When the WD on the truck is set, then you may have to raise or lower the hitch head on the hitch shank to level out the camper. Check the fender heights again after you level out the camper if you have to move a bolt hole. Sometimes a tweak in hitch head tilt may be needed to get back to your ideal WD fender heights.
The truck stance may be level, rear high or rear somewhat lower. All are OK as long as the axle weights are where they need to be. And axle weights follow close to fender heights in changing weights. The only way to 100% know your axle loads is weigh the truck on the scales and compare the weights. But you will need 3 weight sets to do it.
Hope this helps
John
sgfrye wrote:
Basically
Truck is 2017 f250 2wd crew 4x2 gasser 3.73 rear
I felt by the numbers front of truck was a bit light but wasn't really worried based on the way the TT towed which is effortless and when parked on level ground with WDH engaged the TT is dead on level as is truck
I thought a bit more tension on bars might help front truck weight so may try that on next trip
As you are learning your way through this, you have a very good truck for your camper. Congrats!
However there this more to setting the WD hitch then the truck being level. A level truck is not necessarily a good criteria to use as to what is considered proper WD on the truck. If it comes out that way, great. But the stance of the truck is secondary, the weight change on the front axle and what is left on the rear axle is the need.
In your case you have plenty of rear axle capacity so that is not a problem. The front axle however can have issues with excessive sliding in slippery conditions if too much weight is removed with a camper pushing you. They call this understeer.
And too heavy a front axle when towing a camper can have a negative effect too. The front end can bite in so to speak and not slip sending you into a jackknife real fast, again when a camper is pushing you in a turn. They call this oversteer.
Under and Over Steer
The goal with a WD hitch and a camper is to be between those 2 extremes, make sure you are not overloading your rear axle, the truck receiver, and not have the front end too light or too heavy.
Notice I did not mention the stance of the truck. My F350 has a california rake to it. The back end is sky high unhitched, your F250 having lighter rear springs has less rear high but still your truck, and mine are made that the rear axle can carry the entire payload of the truck. The difference with the camper is, the rear overhang is about 65" from the center of the rear axle to the tow ball if you have the short bed. A long bed truck that rear overhang can be even longer. The loaded camper on the tow ball affects the truck axles different than just raw bed weight.
To declare proper WD on the truck we need to talk front axle weights and or front and rear axle fender heights. We will start with the fender heights. Load the truck with camping gear the way you will go camping. This sets the truck at a natural stance with no camper. Record the front and rear fender heights measuring up through the center of the tire on a hard level surface. Ground up through the center of the tire, then to the inside fender. This is set 1.
Then hitch up the camper and just let the raw loaded camper hang on the tow ball. No WD bars engaged yet. Record that number for front and rear fender heights. This is set 2
Then engage the WD bars. Now record that number for front and rear fender heights. This is set 3.
Compare the numbers. The front axle height should be at the 1/2 way point between set 1 and set 2 or up to being equal to set 1 with the WD bars are engaged but beyond and lower then set 1. This is call front axle load restoration, FALR. They want the front axle between 50% to max of 100% load restored with the WD hitch settings. They give you some room to move in between.
On my F350 I am more in the 75 to 80% restored and it is a gasser too and I find this tows well like this. The front it not too bouncy/bobbing from being too light, the steering feels solid and I'm inside all by axle and receiver ratings. At 100% restored on mine, that is not good either are the back of the truck is not as solid left to right. Your F250 and your bed loads may be a little different. There is trial and error to the settings to hit the sweet spot.
For your 2017 F250 look on page 283 under Weight-distributing Hitches and it describes the basics I talked to above.
When the WD on the truck is set, then you may have to raise or lower the hitch head on the hitch shank to level out the camper. Check the fender heights again after you level out the camper if you have to move a bolt hole. Sometimes a tweak in hitch head tilt may be needed to get back to your ideal WD fender heights.
The truck stance may be level, rear high or rear somewhat lower. All are OK as long as the axle weights are where they need to be. And axle weights follow close to fender heights in changing weights. The only way to 100% know your axle loads is weigh the truck on the scales and compare the weights. But you will need 3 weight sets to do it.
Hope this helps
John
