Anyone have damage from blow-only winterizing?

Snowman9000 wrote:


I also wonder if I am introducing any oil from the compressor into the lines. I have a couple of little oil-less units, but I am not sure they'd be big enough to do the job well.

It's not just the oil, there is filthy water in there too. Did you ever drain an air compressor tank? Would you like to add that oil, water and bacteria to your coffee?

K Charles wrote:
Ask if anyone has had damage after using the pink stuff. If you don't do it right it won't work. I blow it out and then remove the house filter and the pump strainer.

Are you saying the pink stuff won't work?

The blow out method is what my coach manufacturer recommends. I also used it for several years in our previous coach with no issues.

I have good success using the blow out method but here in Northern Neck Virginia where the winters are not all that hard...

We camp alot in the late part of the season and run into alot of freezing temps over night that warm up durng the day. The blow out method is perfect for this.

My compressor is one of those 12VDC tankless type which is slower to build up pressure. I hook up to the city water inlet using an air adapter. I open all the spigots including the high pressure hot water heater valve and drain all of my low points. It all works fine for me to blow out my simple water system and then I add some pink stuff to the trap.


This is pretty much all I have to deal with on my somewhat small foot print trailer setup.


With this method I can revert back to using the water system the next day by just adding water to the fresh water tank.

If I had a bigger trailer I would probably do it alittle differently... Everyone has their own problems to deal with I guess...

Been running around the cold high country of VA, WVA, NC, TN, and North GA since 2008 doing it this way with no problems so far...

Roy Ken

Ask if anyone has had damage after using the pink stuff. If you don't do it right it won't work. I blow it out and then remove the house filter and the pump strainer.

So by blowing out the lines you save $4. If something goes wrong do you think $4 will fix it?? Probably not, so I use antifreeze. It only takes about ten minutes. Jmo

I have done blow-only winterizing a few times on two different RVs and have not had damage. Our previous small MH had pairs of drain valves in two separate parts of the house, so I felt confident about that one. This one does not, so I'm not feeling so confident. I am going to use pink stuff in it.

I also wonder if I am introducing any oil from the compressor into the lines. I have a couple of little oil-less units, but I am not sure they'd be big enough to do the job well.

Blowing lines out isn't a problem or any risk, IF, it's done properly.

If you're blowing lines clear at 50psi and you can hear gurgling that tells me that your air line and / or compressor is WAY too small.

At 50psi and with a sufficient VOLUME of air any water in the lines after the initial bulk of water will become aerosol nod the tap will produce a substantial amount of mist for a minute or two.

solismaris wrote:


I noticed when blowing the lines (50 psi) that after the water is expelled the gurgling never seems to stop, but it is diminished. So I think that at least some water remains.

And that is exactly why I feel the blow out method is not a good idea. all it takes is for water to recollect in one low spot and "POP" goes the line.

FWIW, I`ve never had an issue with using the pink stuff!

50 psi a little high ,I like 30 , and a nice easy blow back the lines , I take my strainers off the faucets and blow back. don,t forget the strainer at the water pump. only thing I ever froze in ten years. most times I blow twice.