Forum Discussion
docj
May 02, 2014Explorer
DaveG39 wrote:
Wesdevoe, turn on motorhome ignition switch, go to trailer connector and plug in umbilical cord (mine goes from 7 pin to 6 pin but yours may be 7 pin to 7 pin or other configuration) with voltmeter test the pin connections on the unplugged end of the umbilical cord and find the pin that has 12 volt (most probably the 11:00 or 1:00 position. From there, identify the pin on the towed car that corresponds to the 12v. Take a piece of 10 gauge wire and attach one end to the corresponding pin on the towed connector. Put a piece of wire loom on the wire and feed it through an empty space to the battery. Buy an in line 20 amp auto fuse holder and fuse and attach one end to the wire and the other end to the positive terminal of the battery. Use wire ties to secure the wire in the car. Now remove the fuse, hook up the umbilical cord, turn on the ignition switch in the motorhome measure the voltage between ground and the wire at the fuse. should read 12v. If so, put the fuse back in and you are good to go. Any other questions, PM me.
This approach will work but I can see two areas of possible concern:
First, if your MH is like mine there is no existing pin on the MH trailer connector that provides 12V. So I had to run a new wire from the MH's battery bank back to the rear. Since mine is a DP that wasn't difficult since the batteries are close to the rear.
Second, if you buy one of the packaged toad charging kits it will contain an electronic element that includes diodes to prevent current backflow from the toad's battery to the MH. In addition, in the Toad Charge kit (and maybe others) this device also prevents current flow to the toad unless the MH's engine is actually running. This prevents the toad from draining the MH's batteries if it is left connected overnight.
These latter issues may not be of concern if you have a switched 12V pin on the MH's trailer connector. But for me they would have been an issue.
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