Anyone use a water meter?

DrewE wrote:
Having the overflow go to the black or gray tank would be a violation of sanitation codes, as it would also allow sewage (under some conditions) to get back into the potable water system.

Not if it had a check valve. Basically a BAD idea.

Grit dog wrote:
Haven't read all 3 pages, but appears you found some vent tubes.

You don't need a water meter. Fire up the hose, see how long it takes to fill a 5 gal bucket. Time your fill based on that fill rate.

I suggested the same but maybe you didn't see it ORRR I could be on a time delay. :B

Having the overflow go to the black or gray tank would be a violation of sanitation codes, as it would also allow sewage (under some conditions) to get back into the potable water system.

Haven't read all 3 pages, but appears you found some vent tubes.

You don't need a water meter. Fire up the hose, see how long it takes to fill a 5 gal bucket. Time your fill based on that fill rate.

I plumbed my RV like this:
City water comes in to a T in the pipe leaving the pump. Water cannot flow backwards through the pump, so no water enters the water tank. City water pressurizes your entire post-pump water system and everything works fine. There should be a T in the pipe between the pump and the camper's faucets and water appliances. The T has a shut-off valve. The valve opens the pressurized city water pipe to be able to fill the water tank. From your description this is the only way to fill the tank. When the tank is full you turn off the valve. As long as city water is connected the pump will never turn on because it always senses enough water pressure "downstream", so the RV uses only city water pressure. When u disconnect city water (a have pump on) then pump will operate normally.
#1 you have to have a cut-off valve.
#2 there has to be a vent.
#3 the vent has to exit the camper. It will not dump water into the enclosed under belly of the camper. It will exit outside of the camper. Just look for a hose or an opening where water can exit. There has to be water pouring out somewhere when it overflows. Possible it could dump into your gray tank or into the drain (leads to gray tank), but if so this would be a horrible design and needs to be corrected so the water drains to the ground. There is really no other possibility I know of. The water sould drain to the outside, plain n simple...

Vw triker wrote:
I thought the vent would go out the roof?

That's for the black and grey tanks.

Timer and a 5 gallon bucket will get you very close.

Think about it.

Vw triker wrote:
I thought the vent would go out the roof?

For the gray and black tanks, yes, so that sewer gasses and smells are vented away from people. Plumbing codes generally require this.

For the fresh water tank, it's usually not going through the roof--and the overflow line pretty much never is, since having water run out onto the ground is much less annoying than having it spurt up onto the roof and drip down. Downwards requires less piping and fewer holes in the roof.

Wife and I usually camp for two-three days but she insist to fill the water tank before each trip. We don't use that much water, so IMO a half tank is plenty and as mentioned, "How can one tell how much is in the tank?"
I'm thinking in the following weeks of adding a 12v water sensor and gauge kit that cost less than $90.

Your KZ should have two vent pipes out the bottom. It will not pressurize unless a previous owner did something stupid like adding valves to the vents. Add water till it flows out the vents, done.