Anything Other Than RV Anti Freeze?

PackerBacker wrote:

time2roll wrote:
What length of time can olive oil sit and not go bad?
I don't want mold or something growing.

I never checked to see if it was still good after being in the toilet! :B

I have been using it for a number of years and have never noticed any mold. As I posted above, I mix it with a little antifreeze just to keep something in the bowl. There has always been some left in the bowl in their spring. Last winter it sat that way from October thru early May.

Google tells me good 2 years in a cool dark place. Winter storage = cool. Toilet with the seat cover down =dark same for ptraps.

I've used Toilet Seal Lubricant made by Thetford. You can get it at Camping World. Olive oil would be more economical though.

I can't see why no one wants to taste that olive oil in the bowl... lol :D

Mortimer Brewster wrote:
I've used Toilet Seal Lubricant made by Thetford. You can get it at Camping World. Olive oil would be more economical though.

I was going to mention this in my original post - I have some on order through Amazon!

rexlion wrote:
I can't see why no one wants to taste that olive oil in the bowl... lol :D

MY DOG PROBABLY WOULD

A splash of Mineral oil ( abt $2.50/put at Wally World)

Here is my system for lubricating both sides of the blades and the groove of both of my cable operated drain valves including the toilet flush blade/ball valve. Been doing this for 19 years, still have the original drain valves and seals! I do this at the beginning of each season and occasionally in mid season.

First drain and flush both tanks to flush out all solid matter. Close both dump valves.

I have a 3 inch termination cap that has a garden hose bib, attach a small plastic garden hose ball valve to the hose bib to act as a control valve, install the cap on the end of the RV drain pipe with the hose bib/control valve at the bottom position. Shut the control valve. Attach a short piece of drain hose/bucket if desired. I just let it drain onto the gravel next to my RV concrete parking slab.

Put about 5-8 gal of water in each tank (just make sure that you have more than 3 inches in the black tank and more than 1 1/2 inches in the grey tank). Put a pint of mineral oil in each tank. (about $2.50/pt at Wally World pharmacy) When you put it down the toilet with the water turned off, pour a little amount onto the blade (or ball) open and close it slowly, repeat 2-3 times to completely coat and lubricate the flush valve, when you put it down a sink/shower drain that has a "P" trap use a lot of water to flush it out of the "P trap. (Remember that he oil will be floating on the top of the water)

There are 231 cubic inches/ gal of water. If you know the width and length (even the approximate measurements) you can calculate about how many gals to put 1 1/2" and 3" in your tanks.

Open the black tank drain valve about 1/2 way. This will fill the cavity between the drain valve and the termination cap. Open the control valve a small amount, you want a very slow stream of water SMALLER than pencil diameter. Remember that the oil will float on the top of the water. As the water SLOWLY drains out occasionally cycle the drain valve open/close, leave the drain valve about 1/2 open until the next time to cycle it. As the oil/water interface goes down (lowers) this will ensure that both sides of the blade and the groove is coated with oil. I have always been been able to feel the ease of blade movement when the oil is coating the blade.
Repeat doing the gray tank drain valve.

To lubricate the cable I just pull out the handle opening the valve, apply a few drops of light weight oil to the exposed shaft, operate the valve a few times, repeat a couple of times every year, after a few cycles capillary action will siphon the oil full length of the cable.

darsben1 wrote:
use a glycol based antifreeze (more expensive) instead of an alcohol based antifreeze.

Where are you getting alcohol based antifreeze? I thought they quit making it in the 1950s. As another poster noted, RV antifreeze is propylene glycol based, non-toxic, unlike auto antifreeze, which is mostly ethylene glycol based, and very toxic.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
I have NEVER used that 'rv anti-freeze'

BUT I do use Olive Oil in toilet and a splash or two in 'p' traps

Olive Oil will turn slushy but not freeze, doesn't evaporate, keeps toilet bowl seal lubed/flexible

Did you know that an estimated 70% of the "olive oil" sold in the US is fake, either not olive oil at all but with a wee bit of chlorophyl added for color, or olive oil of such low quality that the olive oil producers consider it suitable only as lamp oil? In fact, if you put it in the toilet bowl and it DOESN'T freeze in cold weather, you've just proven that it isn't olive oil, it's the fake-with-chlorophyl junk. Just a heads up. You know, for your information.

naturist wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
I have NEVER used that 'rv anti-freeze'

BUT I do use Olive Oil in toilet and a splash or two in 'p' traps

Olive Oil will turn slushy but not freeze, doesn't evaporate, keeps toilet bowl seal lubed/flexible

Did you know that an estimated 70% of the "olive oil" sold in the US is fake, either not olive oil at all but with a wee bit of chlorophyl added for color, or olive oil of such low quality that the olive oil producers consider it suitable only as lamp oil? In fact, if you put it in the toilet bowl and it DOESN'T freeze in cold weather, you've just proven that it isn't olive oil, it's the fake-with-chlorophyl junk. Just a heads up. You know, for your information.

OK, I'll bite! Which brand is the real deal?