At what point do I need a WD hitch?

I like to keep things simple so for me, the only reason I use a WD hitch is to satisfy the ratings of the receiver. Keeping in mind that tongue weight increases quickly from advertised tongue weight. If actual weighed tongue weight is less than the manufacturer’s max weight rating without WD, I prefer a simple, short ball mount. I went back and forth with it after the dealer talked me into a WD hitch for our first rig, a new 21’ ball to bumper TT towed with a then new ‘94 F150. I eventually decided on a short straight ball mount with no WD. Towed like a champ and hitching and unhitching was simple.

The main specification is from your TV’s OEM and is mostly a whole system’s spec with sub system and component specs

You will need to have actual, loaded weight numbers of each axle. Then it is simple math using the OEMs instructions

Like the TV receiver and it’s two specifications. 1 for dead weight and other for use with a WD Hitch

Then there will be a spec to return the TVs front to some number, height or weighting

The WD hitch has several specs and you will need the trailers actual weights

The final trailer orientation should be pointing level or slightly down

The trailers actual tongue weight must be in the equal to or more than 12% of the actual trailer to hue weight. This one is moo-shy, as some trailers tow just fine with less and some needs more

Good luck

All things engineered/designed are NOT for the good days...but...for the day Mr Murphy crosses your path...there is a manual and specifications...within those manuals and spec...there are many sections with fine print drafted by lawyers...AKA...CYAs

And at that moment....either you have it or not...spot on...

Plus, at that moment you either have the proper sized and adjusted properly or not

There will be no time to go back to the store/etc....nor time to readjust...

There is only one person responsible for the whole setup...it is the driver...makes no matter if some else set it up...or having a stack of printouts from freebie forums saying: “sure you can”....”I’ve done that with no problems”...”go for it”...etc, etc...

Educate yourself. Read your manuals and if you don’t understand, ask

There is good information here...along with risky info, as there is no skin of theirs in YOUR game

My advice is conservative on purpose....anyone asking does NOT have the experience nor knowledge to push or exceed the limits...as if they did...they would not need to ask...

I have the WD parts assembled on a 700 lb trailer (3500lb axles).
I do not always use it, not on short trips, but long ones I may. I also have a class V hitch (20,000 lb rating).
It is not only about total tongue weight. Handling can improve and is a safety thing also.
The trailer can be loaded front-heavy and when I bounce over bumps on interstate it bounces less with WD. It puts more weight on the front tires which puts more weight where the braking power is. Evens out tire wear slightly. I usually have a TC in the bed, so the truck is already overloaded also, so WD helps keep more weight on the trailer.
I have never noticed sway, not that I can see the trailer with the TC, but the WD will hinder trailer sway also. This is good if something happens to push the trailer sideways at speed and initiates sway. I do a lot of miles towing, so it is nice to have that assurance.
No, it is not necessary, but I can tell the ride is better with it.

Grit,
I agree, each situation is different. A tilt deck trailer is worst one I have ever tried to balance out. God trailer when setup correctly, worst when not not.
Trying to get an older sister to put electric brakes on a 50 Cub? Trailer she pulls with a Toyota hybrid suv. Along with a minimum sized sway WD system. Yeah trailer is in 2000-3000 lb realm. Wa St law requires trailer over 1500 or 40% of licensed gvw of tow rig to have brakes. 40% of 6000 is 2400 lbs. She's borderline.
I also noticed differences in braking with a single 3500 lb axle behind a 35 series dually with and with out brakes. Even tho under law amount, nice having brakes on that mower trailer.
So need, vs required vs really nice to have can vary.
Just as I noticed differences with my TT behind SW GM 3500 with the three setups mentioned earlier.
Marty

Man I’m not disagreeing with the virtues of a wdh when it’s needed and sway control when it’s needed, But thats my point. Folks are asking about miniature trailers behind full size newer trucks and a wdh in those situations is about as silly as wearing 3 pairs of underwear at once.
It don’t hurt anything but why would you?

Grit Dog,
I agree that most trailers that you see on the roads do not have a WD hitch but they are mostly not travel trailers. I very rarely see a TT without one.

I think part of the reason is that the TT manufactures put the axle near the center of the rig to lighten the tongue weight but the weights are still far higher than most other types of trailers. The trailers are also towed by many different types of vehicles - some capable and some not.

I think that if you really take notice, almost all TT owners are using a WD hitch. Partly because the tongue weights are too high for their vehicle in weight carrying mode, and partly because it makes it easier to hook up a sway control device. They have found that using the WD hitch makes for a much more pleasant ride and relaxing trip.

These are my thought on the matter. You may or may not agree - which is fine with me. :)

3 pages into the thread and the phenomenon of putting a wdh on virtually any TT is still alive and well.
Literally look at the 100s or 1000s of trailers you pass by daily on the road and count how many have wdh and how many don’t.
Pro tip. You’ll be able to count how many do on one hand for a good while.

There’s time for a wdh and times where it’s not needed. And mostly it’s a travel trailer phenomenon only.

CptSydor,

Try it. Reality is, if you have it, use it! When I towed my 24'TT, I could tell the difference between no bars, a WD only, and a dual cam. Mostly it is side to side rocking of the trailer with side winds. More with no bars, least with the dual cam. It only took me 2-3 min to hook up either bar setup.

Marty

Going to tag onto this thread, as my question is similar.

I just bought a RPOD 178 - dry weight is 2700lbs, loaded call it 3200lbs? Regardless, towing with a 2014 F150 (5.0L, extend cab, 6.5' bed, 1750lbs payload). I've towed a Dutchman T@da (2300lbs dry) with this truck before on just a ball, no WDH or sway bar. Had no issue, drove from Ontario to Colorado at 65 to 70mph, even would pass at 75mph if needed and felt virtually nothing back there.

Bought the RPOD gently used and the guy had a WDH (no sway bar) that came with it as he was towing with a smaller vehicle. I know I don't need the WDH, it will do no harm hooked up, but is it even worth spending the extra 5-10 minutes attaching it? (I've used a WDH and Sway bar when I had a 27ft, 6000lb trailer for 3 years in there)

Ultimately I probably just need to test this, but sounds like the general opinion is that I could sell this WDH. Not that hooking up an WDH is that arduous but if I'm not going to notice any real difference, I'll just drop the trailer on a regular bar/ball..