automatic transmission and a dodge cummins

transamz9 wrote:


See, here's the problem though...

If you are going to add the extra power to use all of it then you have to bullet proof the rest of it. I didn't add power for that reason, I added it to get the same power at a lower RPM. Because of this I gained fuel mileage and ease of pulling.

Don't get me wrong, a Mustang or two every now and then gets embarrassed but it is done running completely empty and no tow. LOL!

LOL I agree...

6 speeder manual user here.
I'd like the automatic, a new truck just won't be happening for a while.
Clutching is good for now till the knees start complaining.

transamz9 is exactly right. If you add goodies to the engine to add power you better beef the trans. My engine is staying stock. Trans is getting close to needing some attention as there is no adjustment left in the front band. When I do it there will be an upgraded converter put in. Not for power but for longevity. These things make more than enough power to get you in plenty of trouble when they are stock. A friend has an 07 or 08 and has the 6 speed and factory EB which would be nice.

I have 153k on my stock truck with the 48re. Still doings it job and I am happy.

Thats_Ok wrote:
All I know is:
Next door neighbor had a 2005 2500 CTD (used 98K) installed powerpuck lost auto trans in 2 months.
Next door neighbors dad had a 2007 2500 (new) stock except for the big exhaust trans done in 18 months.
Partner at work had a 2002 Cummins 2500 (used 67K) installed Edge controller trans gone in 8 months.

All these trucks with autos towed large 5th wheels and boats.

See, here's the problem though. People put the power in the trucks and then drive them like they stole them. They are putting them in their trucks for the wrong reasons. I drive my truck exactly like I did stock. the only difference is I don't have to run it as hard to get the same results. These trucks have way more power than needed to tow these RV's stock at a reasonable speed. The trick it to only use the same power as before you are just doing it at a lower rpm and a higher gear. The killer on the Dodge trans is heat. They won't lock the torque converter in any gear except OD unless you have the TH button on and then it will only lock it in drive and OD. When the torque converter is unlocked and slipping it creates enormous amounts of heat. The best trick is keeping it locked under hard pulls as much as possible. I can keep mine looked at 40 mph under a pretty hard pull. The added power I have gives me the ability to do this. On a side note, you can break the input shaft if not careful. I don't remember the last time I went over half throttle pulling a hill. Just no need in it.

If you are going to add the extra power to use all of it then you have to bullet proof the rest of it. I didn't add power for that reason, I added it to get the same power at a lower RPM. Because of this I gained fuel mileage and ease of pulling.

Don't get me wrong, a Mustang or two every now and then gets embarrassed but it is done running completely empty and no tow. LOL!

I do not remember the years but to save the automatic transmission the Cummins was detuned by around 20 HP so some when with manual transmission to get more towing power.

All I know is:
Next door neighbor had a 2005 2500 CTD (used 98K) installed powerpuck lost auto trans in 2 months.
Next door neighbors dad had a 2007 2500 (new) stock except for the big exhaust trans done in 18 months.
Partner at work had a 2002 Cummins 2500 (used 67K) installed Edge controller trans gone in 8 months.

All these trucks with autos towed large 5th wheels and boats.

Very good post Boogie except for a couple things. Mine has held well over 400 hp towing 18,000# for years but for the rest of the stuff, you are dead on. My shuttle shifts are from 1st-3rd. All you have to do is push the go pedal and no more shuttle shifts.

The 4 speeds (47RH/47RE/48RE) are good for lighter loads. As you get heavier, that large 3-4 jump hurts on the hills (and makes me wish I would have searched for a 6 spd manual).
The torque convertors are sloppy (to help with turbo spooling from low speeds).
The generate a ridiculously large amount of heat in fluid coupling (because of the sloppy torque convertor, and most fluid is dumped back to the pan in fluid coupling. Most fluid is sent to the cooler during lockup).
They (the 48RE) were placed behind the highest power output at the time of 325HP. The internals are pretty much rated for 330HP.
You have to manually adjust the bands (one requires dropping the pan, but they aren't very hard to do. If you do it wrong you can destroy it before you get to the end of the street.
They have a check ball in the cooling system that likes to gunk up and reduce flow, and stick open to allow drain back so when you first start the truck it wont build line pressure till it refills the cooling system.
Along with that check ball, they have a thermostat in a cooling bypass valve that can stick and cause warm trans temperatures.
There are tons of forum posts on 1-2 shuttle shifts. There are many posts on 2-3 shuttle shifts.
They last anywhere between 10k and 500k miles.
An aftermarket torque convertor and valve body is a substantial upgrade to a stock unit.
They can be built to handle stupid amounts of power.
They have a taller overdrive ratio than the manual (G56).

I like mine. It is easy to work on and the wife can drive it; she has a hard enough time because she is short. It would be even worse for her to try to floorboard the clutch pedal all the time.

I really like mine in by 2010 with the tow haul and exhaust brake combo. I tow in the mtns a lot and very little brake use. It is much better than my 04 Ram was.

I have an 06 so it has the 48RE, I think it is a good combination but I would prefer the 6 speed 68RFE. It was out of my price range at the time.