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path1
Apr 27, 2017Explorer
I had about same problem. Called OEM and here is about what they told me...(So this might diff between rv manufactures)
Lift up about 3 feet on vinyl insert and found out somebody got lazy putting in screws. Only 2 screws in last 4 feet of rail. Called back and OEM walked me thru it.
Tighten the screws I have screws, except a couple. Unscrew a couple of them and make sure are the same size. Then go get a box on new ones. Same size and length. Where awning arms make contact is most strain on gutter. Put screw closet to awning arm coming in. Install another 2 inches to left then 2 inches to right. Then more screws 6 inches from those. Largest span between screws should be no more than 8 inches. Mine had "putty tape" under gutter rail. But I didn't pull off entire rail to put on new, as just one spot that was wiggling loose. Then I put proper Dicor for my roof type and color and put over edge where gutter rail meets roof. My screws were "self tapping" and zink or alum cant' remember which. But a box of 50 was not much.
No more problems but I do watch it, seems like a weak point in construction to me. And I never had any problem like that with old manual awning, which tension from different spot. My frame material is square alum tube not wood. That would make a big difference IMO
Lift up about 3 feet on vinyl insert and found out somebody got lazy putting in screws. Only 2 screws in last 4 feet of rail. Called back and OEM walked me thru it.
Tighten the screws I have screws, except a couple. Unscrew a couple of them and make sure are the same size. Then go get a box on new ones. Same size and length. Where awning arms make contact is most strain on gutter. Put screw closet to awning arm coming in. Install another 2 inches to left then 2 inches to right. Then more screws 6 inches from those. Largest span between screws should be no more than 8 inches. Mine had "putty tape" under gutter rail. But I didn't pull off entire rail to put on new, as just one spot that was wiggling loose. Then I put proper Dicor for my roof type and color and put over edge where gutter rail meets roof. My screws were "self tapping" and zink or alum cant' remember which. But a box of 50 was not much.
No more problems but I do watch it, seems like a weak point in construction to me. And I never had any problem like that with old manual awning, which tension from different spot. My frame material is square alum tube not wood. That would make a big difference IMO
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