Had a blow out coming home after Memorial Day weekend. Tread separation on China Bombs. Looking at options to maybe repair myself. Pics are below. What you don't see is the styro-foam got chewed out between the thin plywood bottom and the inside floor. That's easy enough, and I was planning on maybe just using that expandable foam to fill that gap.Instead of trying to replace the thin plywood, Im thinking about using steel just in case another blow out happens. In fact, thinking about adding steel above all four tires.My biggest dilemma is going to be the bracket that is all bent. I believe I can get it back in place and weld it back.Anyone out there have other ideas or see any problems with my approach? Trailer actually goes in to have the front cap painted tomorrow. Im going to ask the shop doing to painting what their thoughts are, but would like to hear from folks who maybe have had to do similar repairs and get any ideas.Here's the pics... ThanksMike

My insurance cover my TT that had to be "scraped" due to a blow out that bent the frame.

I've often pontificated about this problem on Towables and MHs.Since most Towables seem to have the same standard four wheel 2 axle spacing why don't they install a, not bare, steel which would rot in short order up north but, as substantial steel alloy can to shield the RVs from road objects and blowouts.Many are maimed or killed every years from blowouts on MHs. 250.00 to 350.00 max for such protection on a Towable and perhaps another200.00 or a Motorhome.For MH's at least they could install the safety devices that are like an inner tire, on the steer axle. They are hard to find now but if the factory installed them they would soon be more available.Go ahead and put the steel cans under your rv. The best idea yet. Make them heavy enough they won't rust through. Maybe a metal dealer can steer you to an alloy that is rust resistant.

Yup my sewage bay is behind the tires.I lost my entire sewage bay due to a blow out. Valves, bay and part of front of tanks. Looked like a bomb went off inside. :(Found out the tanks are all 'one molded piece' AND very expensive replacement because it includes the entire molded part that comes to the valves.I used turnbuckles to bring all the cracked plastic together. And then I screwed heavy wire screening to replace and cover the rest of the damage.5 years later and all turnbuckles still holding and wire screen still in place.

Looks like it's Totaled to me. :h

TenOC wrote:My insurance cover my TT that had to be "scraped" due to a blow out that bent the frame.Wow... That's a heckuva lot of damage from a blow-out.I do not believe the frame is bent, just that bracket that comes out 90 degrees from the frame.Mike

Blowout Damage repair | Good Sam Community

Lynnmor
Explorer
Jun 04, 2017
That bracket is an outrigger that supports the wall. You should be able to buy a new one from Lippert using the frame number usually found near the tongue. Failing that, reshaping the old one will result in a weaker piece, so you could fabricate one or reinforce the straightened one.

It looks like that bolt held the floor and should be repaired. That would be a major project. Check with your insurance and tire manufacturer to see if you can be compensated.

I agree that a steel liner would be a benefit but there are several pitfalls. Water will get behind the steel and cause rot problems above it. If there is much room, it could be spaced away from the floor so it can dry. The edges, and especially the ends, would need to be anchored so that a failing tire cannot grab it and cause even bigger problems.

Galvanized steel is available and that should last longer than the poorly painted frame.
Walaby
Explorer II
Jun 04, 2017
TenOC wrote:
My insurance cover my TT that had to be "scraped" due to a blow out that bent the frame.

Wow... That's a heckuva lot of damage from a blow-out.

I do not believe the frame is bent, just that bracket that comes out 90 degrees from the frame.

Mike
1968mooney
Explorer
Jun 04, 2017
Looks like it's Totaled to me. :h
rockhillmanor
Explorer
Jun 04, 2017
Yup my sewage bay is behind the tires.

I lost my entire sewage bay due to a blow out. Valves, bay and part of front of tanks. Looked like a bomb went off inside. :(

Found out the tanks are all 'one molded piece' AND very expensive replacement because it includes the entire molded part that comes to the valves.

I used turnbuckles to bring all the cracked plastic together. And then I screwed heavy wire screening to replace and cover the rest of the damage.

5 years later and all turnbuckles still holding and wire screen still in place.
down_home
Explorer II
Jun 04, 2017
I've often pontificated about this problem on Towables and MHs.
Since most Towables seem to have the same standard four wheel 2 axle spacing why don't they install a, not bare, steel which would rot in short order up north but, as substantial steel alloy can to shield the RVs from road objects and blowouts.
Many are maimed or killed every years from blowouts on MHs. 250.00 to 350.00 max for such protection on a Towable and perhaps another200.00 or a Motorhome.
For MH's at least they could install the safety devices that are like an inner tire, on the steer axle. They are hard to find now but if the factory installed them they would soon be more available.
Go ahead and put the steel cans under your rv. The best idea yet. Make them heavy enough they won't rust through. Maybe a metal dealer can steer you to an alloy that is rust resistant.
TenOC
Nomad
Jun 04, 2017
My insurance cover my TT that had to be "scraped" due to a blow out that bent the frame.

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