Blue Ox Sway Pro Setup question UPDATE
I have a B.O Sway Pro 1500, Prime Time Lacrosse 324RST TT and Ram 2500 CTD. When hooked up, TT and TV are level. Hitch/Bars setup on 10th link. Tongue Weight is 1480 with two 30lb propane tanks, TT...
Forum Discussion
Blue Ox's earlier hitch heads were adjustable like most all others
Until they cast that max tilt into the head to make it non-adjustable
That is because of how it works to manage/reduce sway with the bent bar ends push/pull on the trailer tongue
Without that max tilt, there is less or potentially less bar end bending, so less push/pull forces
IMHO, the numbers of links coiled up vs links showing is not a good measure without the bar rating...an adjustment without metrics other than an out of context number of links (showing or coiled) needs to have the space/distance from the take-up mechanism to the bar end's 'U' bolt.
Then how level is the tongue vs TV's orientation is another component of this 'tension' or WD forces, which has many other attributes that must be accounted for. Like the TV's wheel base vs rear axle center line to ball distance. That is all in the moments that the bars must work on/with/etc. Ditto the trailer's axle(s) center line to coupler dome center line...vs where the WD chain take up distance from coupler dome to it's center line (I'd use the chain line)
Bottom line: All of these recommendations, comments, etc are just indicative of all of the dials/knobs/etc adjustments to get to the final orientation....trailer tongue level at it's highest pointing (I like slightly down), 12%-15% tongue weight (actual and I like >12%) and that the TV's front is returned to whatever the OEM manual says it should be AFTER WD'ing
Ditto...think there is something amiss with the OP's setup that we don't know of...yet
Until they cast that max tilt into the head to make it non-adjustable
That is because of how it works to manage/reduce sway with the bent bar ends push/pull on the trailer tongue
Without that max tilt, there is less or potentially less bar end bending, so less push/pull forces
IMHO, the numbers of links coiled up vs links showing is not a good measure without the bar rating...an adjustment without metrics other than an out of context number of links (showing or coiled) needs to have the space/distance from the take-up mechanism to the bar end's 'U' bolt.
Then how level is the tongue vs TV's orientation is another component of this 'tension' or WD forces, which has many other attributes that must be accounted for. Like the TV's wheel base vs rear axle center line to ball distance. That is all in the moments that the bars must work on/with/etc. Ditto the trailer's axle(s) center line to coupler dome center line...vs where the WD chain take up distance from coupler dome to it's center line (I'd use the chain line)
Bottom line: All of these recommendations, comments, etc are just indicative of all of the dials/knobs/etc adjustments to get to the final orientation....trailer tongue level at it's highest pointing (I like slightly down), 12%-15% tongue weight (actual and I like >12%) and that the TV's front is returned to whatever the OEM manual says it should be AFTER WD'ing
Ditto...think there is something amiss with the OP's setup that we don't know of...yet
