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Walaby's avatar
Walaby
Explorer II
May 10, 2018

Blue Ox Sway Pro Setup question UPDATE

I have a B.O Sway Pro 1500, Prime Time Lacrosse 324RST TT and Ram 2500 CTD.

When hooked up, TT and TV are level. Hitch/Bars setup on 10th link. Tongue Weight is 1480 with two 30lb propane tanks, TT loaded to rock, along with ~15 gal of fresh water (~120 lbs).

When setup on 10th link, I am still 160lbs lighter on front axle than unhitched weight. Even when I use the tongue jack and raise the hitch to the point where back wheels are just about off the ground, it takes a fair amount of effort to hook up the bars. I can do it fine, but if wife ever had to do it, she couldn't.

Since I am close to bar max, Im thinking about upgrading to 2000 lb bars. The max I'd be is the 1480 tongue weight, and I don't always carry that much water, and of course, propane tanks empty over time.

Regardless of decision to upgrade bars, I'd like to get a little more weight back on front axle, but don't want to go past 10 links. Since trailer is level when hitched, Im thinking I should LOWER the hitch by one hole (~1.5 inch). Will doing that (a) increase the leverage and add weight to front and/or (b) allow me to hitch at maybe 9th link? Or would I see just the opposite effect?

Alternatively/additionally, if i upgrade to 2k bars, does that have any impact on how much weight is transferred to front (assuming same 10th link)? Im guessing not, since leverage is the same.

Tows real nice as is... I would just like to be able to hitch it up easier (so wife could do it if necessary).

I would THINK that dropping the hitch 1.5" would change the leverage and either give me same transfer at maybe the 9th link, or get more weight on the front on 10th link.

Thoughts???

Mike

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  • BurbMan's avatar
    BurbMan
    Explorer II
    May 12, 2018
    Walaby wrote:
    Maybe with the 2k bars, the tension will be less at full height... who knows.
    Mike


    I would bet that too. Post back and let us know how the heavier bars work and if they are easier to hitch up.
  • Walaby's avatar
    Walaby
    Explorer II
    May 11, 2018
    I think Im going to buy a set of 2k bars and see how that works. I do raise the tongue as high as I can with jack before hooking up bars. Maybe with the 2k bars, the tension will be less at full height... who knows. But at least I will have extra capacity bar wise and not be at max.

    Normally I don't travel with fresh water tank having that much. Did that to represent the max that I would see TW wise. Had full propane and fresh tank at about 1/3 or so full when I went to scales.

    Mike
  • Lynnmor's avatar
    Lynnmor
    Explorer
    May 11, 2018
    BurbMan wrote:
    Walaby wrote:
    I hear/read all the time folks saying they can snap up brackets by hand when fully raised with tongue jack. Makes me think I may have some tweaks to do (ie lower hitch maybe)?

    Mike


    The above is absolutely true, and if you can't do that you need to look at why. Think about what the spring bars are doing, they are under tension to keep the rig level at the hitch point. If you use some other means to support that weight, ie the tongue jack, there shouldn't be any tension on the bars. You have to raise the the tongue above level to release the tension on the bars, but if you are maxing out the tongue jack travel and still not unloading the bars then you definitely need to change something. Bigger wrench is not the answer here.

    Lowering the hitch head and going to heavier spring bars is probably not a bad idea since you are right at the rating of the current bars.


    The Blue Ox has considerably more flex in the bars than other brands, so you should expect to raise the tongue a lot more to reduce tension.

    Many folks buy hitches rated for more tongue weight than necessary and then the bars barely act as a spring and will release tension even during normal driving conditions.
  • BurbMan's avatar
    BurbMan
    Explorer II
    May 11, 2018
    Walaby wrote:
    I hear/read all the time folks saying they can snap up brackets by hand when fully raised with tongue jack. Makes me think I may have some tweaks to do (ie lower hitch maybe)?

    Mike


    The above is absolutely true, and if you can't do that you need to look at why. Think about what the spring bars are doing, they are under tension to keep the rig level at the hitch point. If you use some other means to support that weight, ie the tongue jack, there shouldn't be any tension on the bars. You have to raise the the tongue above level to release the tension on the bars, but if you are maxing out the tongue jack travel and still not unloading the bars then you definitely need to change something. Bigger wrench is not the answer here.

    Lowering the hitch head and going to heavier spring bars is probably not a bad idea since you are right at the rating of the current bars.
  • Retired_JSO's avatar
    Retired_JSO
    Explorer
    May 11, 2018
    You can purchase the 2000 lb bars and still use the standard hitch shank. I had a 1500 lb bar setup and ordered the 2000 bars. Was able to sell the 1500 lb bars on Facebook.
  • Walaby's avatar
    Walaby
    Explorer II
    May 10, 2018
    Looked at owners manual and didn't see anything on specs for restoring front axle weight. Have to look more though.

    I do use a breaker bar, but still have a significant amount of tension when truck is fully raised via tongue jack.

    Less concerned about full weight back on front. Would like to have less tension when snapping up and unloading brackets... primarily if wife has to do it for whatever reason.

    I hear/read all the time folks saying they can snap up brackets by hand when fully raised with tongue jack. Makes me think I may have some tweaks to do (ie lower hitch maybe)?

    Mike
  • handye9's avatar
    handye9
    Explorer II
    May 10, 2018
    Check your owners manual. You may find you're already within specs on restoring front axle weight.
  • Colo_Native's avatar
    Colo_Native
    Explorer
    May 10, 2018
    I use a Blue ox 2000 and it is a 2 1/2" shank my TT is 1250# unloaded and closer to 1550# with 60 gal water. I think to use 2000# bars you HAVE to use a 2 1/2" shank(Call Blue ox). My hitch is set at the same height as the trailer when level and I use the 9th link (blue ox recommended) and to help crank the chains I have a 18"and 25" breaker bar and socket. Keep in mind that the 2 1/2" shank weights 60#.
  • downtheroad's avatar
    downtheroad
    Explorer
    May 10, 2018
    To help snap up the brackets, I use a ratcheting breaker bar that I got at Harbor Freight. Inexpensive and really does a much better job than the wrench supplied by BlueOx.

    Wrench....HERE.

    As far as weight...I didn't worry so much about it. I got our BlueOx adjusted so that the front only lifts about 1/2" or less when hooked up and trip ready loaded.

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