garyemunson wrote:
What is happening with your water heater? Can you hear the gas valve open when it is trying to heat? Can you hear a snapping noise from the spark ignition? The Dinosaur replacement boards seem to be a lot tougher than the OEM control boards. I've had to replace bad factory boards on a couple of our RVs over the years. Never had to go back and replace a dinosaur board.
I don't have any help so I can't be outside next to the heater with someone flipping the switch. When I am inside the only sound I hear is the switch clicking.
When it did this junk at the same time last year I did all the cleaning then had to play around with turning everything off and on in different orders maybe 2-3x and then it started working and worked for a year.
But not this time. I even went ahead and disconnected from shore power just b/c I hadn't tried it yet. It didn't make any dif.
If it's going to come down to replacing a control board that is a trip to the shop for me. It's beyond my skill level and I have a warranty.
Is there any tests I can do to determine if the problem is the regulator or the control board?
Also, when I was going through my trouble shooting I had a different problem for a minute. I was turning everything off and on, etc. One thing I read is that the water being hot in the tank when you are trying to fix this can cause the DSI to not "turn on"(?) and throw a fault. It was recommended to turn off the electric heater (which works, but not as well as the gas when it works).
So on several occasions I bled the HW tank so it would fill with cold water. At one point I thought I had run out of propane on the first tank b/c the furnace was not coming on. (My furnace just does not fire up if it is sucking on an empty tank.) So I flipped tanks and it was no problem. Then when I went to fill the propane tanks it turned out that first tank was only half empty.
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Edit: Did I just answer my own question? Would the electric water heater still work if it had a "bad" control board?
