cargo trailer

thanks all- at the very least I will be replacing the plywood on the ramp door in the rear- I took up one small piece of worn plywood and it looks like it just screws into the metal frame (there are holes there in the frame)- One question I have (and maybe i am just being stupid) is- When I put new plywood down- is there any way I can match up the existing holes so i can re-screw into?

If yours is constructed like my Pace, just remove the side wall plywood, remove the floor & replace. It is not under the side wall like most campers are constructed.

I suggest cleaning and painting or coating the frame before putting the wood back in.

huskyfan1968 wrote:
ok thanks everyone!- I would love to just screw down more on top- would be much easier- I was just concerned that the original floor may be weak at the outer edges- will adding the plywood on top make it worse if the original plywood edges deteriroate?

If you're thinking the floor is deteriorating from the bottom, due to road wetness ... then make sure it's sealed. If you look under the trailer, should be a black or dark brown or dark green undercoat 'sprayed' on it.

If you don't find it, then you can buy an undercoating at any Home Depot type store and brush it on (I know, a hassle, and jack it up). But, I'd believe double plywood will always win in this case.

ok thanks everyone!- I would love to just screw down more on top- would be much easier- I was just concerned that the original floor may be weak at the outer edges- will adding the plywood on top make it worse if the original plywood edges deteriroate?

That's exactly what I did 5 years ago to my Pace turned bike trailer. When I got it the floor was a little spongy and springy. I just got 3/4 plywood and screwed it down to the current floor and chaulked around the edges. You may not even need 3/4, 1/2 may do the trick but I over kill lol....It is now tough as nails and no bounce at all to it. I carry a HD Ultra at 800 lbs and have towed it all over the country with no problems at all. Just be careful at the rear where the ramp folds up. You have to allow room for the door to fold in so cut it about an inch short at the rear. Believe me it is a pain to try and cut it off after you got it glued and screwed down lol lol........oh keep an eye on your bearings...on one trip I heard rattling from the rear and here some how the wheel came loose. I have no idea how the bearing keeper backed off and allowed the wheel to almost come off the spindle.

I would get new plywood and screw it down directly to the existing floor - It might add a little weight - but will be much stronger with double-ply floor.

Usually, the floors on those are not good quality plywood anyway, but even that will hold strength when screwed together.

Screw it down approximately six inches O/C around the edges and twelve inches O/C in the middle and you should be good to go ... and for that little added weight, you'll have a strong floor. Especially for a golf cart.

I'd use exterior grade 3/4" plywood and use a good quality oil and grease resistant garage flooring paint.

Is it an enclosed trailer?

If so, I would bet you are going to have to remove the side paneling to get the floor up.

changing the floor is fairly simple hardest part will be getting the old floor out it should be held down with counter sunk decking screws..they can be a pain to get back out...they will look like these..

http://www.mcfeelys.com/self-drilling-screws

No rocket science in trailer construction. My bet is the floor is just screwed down. Th ewood decking in trailers is kinda meant o be replaced as needed. If you re-do it you could do something nice like paint it before installation (it will help it last) and maybe non skid paint on the top (slippery floors suck). Be sure to use exterior ply and not OSB or some other cheap substitute.

thanks- The GVWR of the trailer is 2990lbs- I believe the trailer empty is about 900lbs- I would think it can handle a golf cart but I will check the weight