Forum Discussion
path1
May 03, 2017Explorer
Don't you have faith in shark bite? But IMO better to test. A proper test and you'll know what pressure you can take. Nothing worse than water leak IMO. I test with air, lots easier to clean up air than water IMO. I believe is called a "test" plug. Screws into fresh water and keeps check valve open. Could do same thing a lot cheaper with $15.00 gauge installed on high pressure side of fresh water. A "pass" for me is 65 psi (air not water) for 5 min. PSI loss with in 5 min...I start looking. Or if you have a psi gauge (and somewhat accurate) on your air compressor, get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Accu-gage-Chek-Spare-Valve-Extender/dp/B0006O2S8M and install a valve stem (five dollar for a brass valve stem which is best IMO) on in the high pressure side of water system. And get an adapter for air hose, so you can thread end onto air compressor air hose.
As far as "catchment" system, can't think of any other than a mop bucket:E
Here are RV's spec's that might be old but are right out of the "book" (unless the OEMS's got them changed...again)
Pressurized System Test.
---The test shall be performed by subjecting the pressure water piping system to either air or water pressure for 10 minutes without leakage or loss of pressure.
--- The entire piping system shall be filled with water and pressure tested with air or water at 80 psi to 100 psi (551 kPa to 689 kPa). The entire piping system shall include the hot water storage tank and the pressurized potable water storage tank.
---The water heater storage tank and the pressurized potable water storage tank shall be removed from the piping system, and the remaining piping system shall be pressure tested with air at 80 psi to 100 psi (551 kPa to 689 kPa).
---PVC and CPVC systems shall be permitted to be tested to the manufacturer's recommended test procedure.
Found it...http://www.rvpartsgeek.com/product/jr-products-04-62275-city-water-pressure-test-plug/ Little nipple at end keeps check valve open when testing. Explains better here. http://www.bandbmolders.com/files/PCV_Test_Plug_Flier2.pdf But you'll have to buy more stuff to have a complete testing tool. That is why I like the idea of just using a "check a spare" and install a brass valve stem as a test port.
As a side note I helped a neighbor with their PDI. Kind of funny and sad at same time but RV dealer's of a test was basically looking under RV for any water dripping out.
For drainage side of this like under sink I have couple of these in RV https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K I sanded down the little legs to make better contact if any water is present. Also I place on paper, so you can tell visually by looking a the paper every know and then if water has made contact.
Hope this helps. My writing not the best.
As far as "catchment" system, can't think of any other than a mop bucket:E
Here are RV's spec's that might be old but are right out of the "book" (unless the OEMS's got them changed...again)
Pressurized System Test.
---The test shall be performed by subjecting the pressure water piping system to either air or water pressure for 10 minutes without leakage or loss of pressure.
--- The entire piping system shall be filled with water and pressure tested with air or water at 80 psi to 100 psi (551 kPa to 689 kPa). The entire piping system shall include the hot water storage tank and the pressurized potable water storage tank.
---The water heater storage tank and the pressurized potable water storage tank shall be removed from the piping system, and the remaining piping system shall be pressure tested with air at 80 psi to 100 psi (551 kPa to 689 kPa).
---PVC and CPVC systems shall be permitted to be tested to the manufacturer's recommended test procedure.
Found it...http://www.rvpartsgeek.com/product/jr-products-04-62275-city-water-pressure-test-plug/ Little nipple at end keeps check valve open when testing. Explains better here. http://www.bandbmolders.com/files/PCV_Test_Plug_Flier2.pdf But you'll have to buy more stuff to have a complete testing tool. That is why I like the idea of just using a "check a spare" and install a brass valve stem as a test port.
As a side note I helped a neighbor with their PDI. Kind of funny and sad at same time but RV dealer's of a test was basically looking under RV for any water dripping out.
For drainage side of this like under sink I have couple of these in RV https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-Basement-Watchdog/dp/B000JOK11K I sanded down the little legs to make better contact if any water is present. Also I place on paper, so you can tell visually by looking a the paper every know and then if water has made contact.
Hope this helps. My writing not the best.
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