Caulking recommendations

I emailed them today asking about dealers in my area. We'll see what they say. Thanks

nunsie wrote:
Any suggestions where to buy Wurth bond and seal? It comes highly recommended from a car forum as well. Thanks

My local RV dealer switched to it exclusively so I get it there. Wurth is a Canadian company operating out of Mississauga Ontario, their website doesn't have information on where to buy so I would contact them directly and ask.

Any suggestions where to buy Wurth bond and seal? It comes highly recommended from a car forum as well. Thanks

Thats_Ok wrote:
I started using Sikaflex elastomeric on our last trailer in an attempt to keep the caulking white.

The dingy look drove me nutz.

I would scrub the old caulk with touch of TSP and a poly scrubber then re-strike with Sikaflex.

*caution
TSP can remove paint rinse water should be kept close at hand.

I've used proflex and sikaflex but neither last as long as Wurth Bond and Seal. Wurth Bond and Seal is great stuff, it definitely lasts longer than anything else I've tried. The biggest difference I've noticed is it doesn't seem to pull away from the surface like the other two products mentioned.

I started using Sikaflex elastomeric on our last trailer in an attempt to keep the caulking white.

The dingy look drove me nutz.

I would scrub the old caulk with touch of TSP and a poly scrubber then re-strike with Sikaflex.

*caution
TSP can remove paint rinse water should be kept close at hand.

Thank you all for your comments. From what I can determine, either Dicor or Proflex caulking should meet my requirements. I assume there is no compelling reason to choose one over the other except for differences in price and/or availability. One wonders why the producers of these materials don't supply them in a smaller, resealable toothpaste-type tube that is more practical for spot use. I would think there would be a decent market for such a product for use by RV owners doing general maintenance. I know I would include a tube in my maintenance kit if it were available.

Charlie D., following your suggestion, I used some bleach on the caulking I have applied and it did remove some of the dingy appearance. However, I am guessing that, even though it worked temporarily, it would again attract dirt on my next trip due to the surface characteristics of the material. We shall see. Thanks anyway for your suggestion.

Regarding preserving the material in the large tubes, I wonder if some barrier to air infiltration such as petroleum jelly applied to the electrical connector cap would lengthen the useful life of the product. Perhaps the barrier could also be applied where the sliding baffle meets the inner surface of the tube after the original seal has been broken.

I have tried every tip I was told and many others but caulking will eventually dry out no matter what you do. I have learned to touch up other areas, add a little here and there and be prepared to buy another tube next time.

I know it is extra work but have you tried a sponge with bleach, 409, Bleeche White, etc.

EDIT: I have read on this forum that one poster used a vacuum sealer and it works well.

I like Pro-Flex.
I have had pretty good luck with it so far.

I also use a wire nut and a screw to keep the tube from drying out.

Bill

Thanks, tandkj, for the advice. For obvious reasons, I am trying to avoid buying a large tube for a small job and having the rest go bad. If your technique preserves the material in the tube for a reasonable amount of time, then Dicor appears to be a viable option.

As stated previously, I am assuming the original caulk was Dicor. Whatever it was, it seems to be retaining its color (white) without darkening under normal use conditions. In your experience, is this consistent with Dicor applications? Or am I making the wrong assumption?

Use Dicor from a large tube then plug the tube for next use. An electrical wire nut works great for closing/plugging the open tip.