charging rates
We are planning a fall trip using state and national forest sites that no electrical hookups. Idea is to stay at each site a day or two and move on. Traveling between sites, what battery recharge ra...
Forum Discussion
pianotuna,
Quote:
"The connection path is two #8 wires with solenoids. I do have the ability to turn them off. A third path is one way from house to engine via a Trik-L-Start module."
My very heavy duty charging system goes thru an 80 amp engine start solenoid under the hood that's available at most decent automotive stores or any store can order one for you. The #2 gauge copper cable current goes from the dual alternator positive current junction block directly to the 80 amp starter solenoid which is activated by slide switch control. The slide switch solenoid activation control under the hood right next to the solenoid. It's an emergency shut off if needed and disconnects my entire charging system going back. This under the hood switch gets its current from the truck's ignition thru an illuminated switch mounted in the cab on the bottom of the I/P on the lower left side. The solenoid can be activated (turned on or off) anytime by the in cab mounted control switch.
When either switch or the ignition is off, all batteries, truck and RV, are completely isolated even if the ignition is turned on. Total overall control is a must for me. Both switches and the ignition switch must be on to send charging current thru the two 80 amp marine fuses (one next to the solenoid and the other in the truck box at the 2 batteries there to the barrel switch on the RV and to the RV battery bank. Thus connecting all the batteries and the alternator together. The truck's ignition switch is the ultimate controller and will totally isolate the truck's starting batteries but still connect the 2 batteries in the bed with the 5 in the RV. Now have 7 big batteries when they are connected or 5 when not for the RV.
Truck starting/running battery/batteries dead? No Problem! Turn on the trucks ignition, your system switches on, use a cheap pre-made simple jumper wire with an alligator clip on both ends, jumper the solenoid activation terminal to connect the RV etc batteries to the truck engine starter circuit and turn the key and be on your way! Versatility designed in is where it's at! Charley Brown said it right, "Winning is such a beautiful word"!
Very simple and cheap to do if you take the time to think thru it. Cheaper than buying a manufactured isolator for your truck and have ultimate control and so easy to move to a new truck if wanted. Fit and works perfect on all 12 Volt systems and delivers real amperage of 80 amps to the RV batteries when needed for recharging quickly. Don't need an electrical engineering degree to do it either, just simple hand tools and a few hours.
Quote:
"The connection path is two #8 wires with solenoids. I do have the ability to turn them off. A third path is one way from house to engine via a Trik-L-Start module."
My very heavy duty charging system goes thru an 80 amp engine start solenoid under the hood that's available at most decent automotive stores or any store can order one for you. The #2 gauge copper cable current goes from the dual alternator positive current junction block directly to the 80 amp starter solenoid which is activated by slide switch control. The slide switch solenoid activation control under the hood right next to the solenoid. It's an emergency shut off if needed and disconnects my entire charging system going back. This under the hood switch gets its current from the truck's ignition thru an illuminated switch mounted in the cab on the bottom of the I/P on the lower left side. The solenoid can be activated (turned on or off) anytime by the in cab mounted control switch.
When either switch or the ignition is off, all batteries, truck and RV, are completely isolated even if the ignition is turned on. Total overall control is a must for me. Both switches and the ignition switch must be on to send charging current thru the two 80 amp marine fuses (one next to the solenoid and the other in the truck box at the 2 batteries there to the barrel switch on the RV and to the RV battery bank. Thus connecting all the batteries and the alternator together. The truck's ignition switch is the ultimate controller and will totally isolate the truck's starting batteries but still connect the 2 batteries in the bed with the 5 in the RV. Now have 7 big batteries when they are connected or 5 when not for the RV.
Truck starting/running battery/batteries dead? No Problem! Turn on the trucks ignition, your system switches on, use a cheap pre-made simple jumper wire with an alligator clip on both ends, jumper the solenoid activation terminal to connect the RV etc batteries to the truck engine starter circuit and turn the key and be on your way! Versatility designed in is where it's at! Charley Brown said it right, "Winning is such a beautiful word"!
Very simple and cheap to do if you take the time to think thru it. Cheaper than buying a manufactured isolator for your truck and have ultimate control and so easy to move to a new truck if wanted. Fit and works perfect on all 12 Volt systems and delivers real amperage of 80 amps to the RV batteries when needed for recharging quickly. Don't need an electrical engineering degree to do it either, just simple hand tools and a few hours.
