We're in the process of purchasing a 2004 Pleasure-Way Excel-TS Ford (class B+) with 73,000 miles on it through a consignment dealer. Because of insurance issues we did not take it for a test drive but did accompany the salesman as he drove it for a short distance.The motorhome seemed to ride surprisingly rough. I was sitting in the back sofa so maybe it was worse, but my wife who was sitting in the front also felt the vibration. We've never had a motorhome, so have nothing with which to compare this experience.The vibration seemed to appear suddenly as the speed increased and disappear instantly below a certain speed. I'm guessing that point to be about 25 mph. The salesman claimed it was because the heavy duty tires (Michelin LT245/75R16) take some time to warm up after which the vibration would smooth out. The tires are two years old and show little tread wear although I did notice what appears to be some signs of dry rot on one tire which concerns me.The motorhome will be going to a Ford dealer for a comprehensive inspection (at my expense), so if there is a problem with the drive train hopefully it will be uncovered during that inspection. The seller is responsible for paying for any repairs.Is it true, as the salesman claims, that these types of heavy duty tires take some time to warm up after which the ride will smooth out? FWIW, we're in Florida and it was not cold that day.Thank you,Harry

Salesman's explanation rings somewhat hollow, as they often do. To the best of my knowledge, Michelin doesn't use nylon in the cords of either the LTX or the Rib (their two most likely tires in load range E). Nylon used to be known for flatspotting. I've owned LTX's; didn't like them at all, but it was for poor handling on a class B, not flatspotting. Ribs are all steel, I'm pretty sure.I'd suspect less-than-perfect balance, a bent rim, or a lot of other less likely culprits.Considering some Ford E-350's very real reputation for poor drivability in B's and C's, I'd be _very_ hesitant about buying one I couldn't take for a proper test drive my-own-dang-self. Please, do yourself a favor. See the class B forum's FAQ section about the importance of test driving on a 4-lane with fast-passing big rigs, and the importance of checking tire pressures first. Jim, "Mo' coffee!"

salesman lied ,RUN AWAY. thats a bunch of bull stuff about the tires and I never heard of not being able to test drive a rv. this unit has major front end problems and its a money pit. RUN!!! RUN!!!> I have those same tires on my rv run smooth and handle great. your being lied too!!!!.

I would want to test drive a vehicle I was interested in purchasing myself. There is a lot about the way a vehicle "feels" through the steering column, accelerator, etc. I don't always know what it is, but if I feel something, there is definitely a cause.That said, I would also not be paying for a comprehensive inspection without having driven it myself. And I would not always rely on a dealer inspection. They probably won't drive it either. I would at least want to tell them what I was feeling, etc., so they could find a cause.Dale

Did the salesman say the tires are two years old, and they have cracks in them? That just doesn't sound right. Check the date codes on all the tires. The vibration is most likely from the tires but I would have it checked out before buying. As others said, I would drive it on the express way for many miles or tell them to get lost.

HarryB1 wrote:The vibration seemed to appear suddenly as the speed increased and disappear instantly below a certain speed. I'm guessing that point to be about 25 mph. First, never buy a motorhome until you, not the salesperson, has driven it on the highway and have brought the speed up to 65mph.If the salesman won't let you drive it, don't buy it. This is especially true with a wide body Class B. The widebody's are known for handling issues.Second, I recently had a Class B+ on the Ford e350 and it had a similar vibration. In fact, it vibrated so much I thought it was going to shake the side windows lose.After spending money on new tires, shocks, and alignment, only to have the vibration continue, it was determined that one of the wheels was bent or out of round.Changing this wheel out with the spare resolved most of the vibration, but not all of it.The vibration you experience might be from something else - maybe related to the widebody.In addition to vibration, you'll want to drive the coach yourself so you can experience Ford's bump steer and wander problem (caused by improper alignment), and to look for other handling issues.But if it were me and if the salesman won't let you drive it, walk away from the deal. There are plenty of other Class B's on the market, most from sellers who will let you drive them.Bill

Class B Motorhome Vibration While Driving | Good Sam Community

OpenRangePullen
Explorer
Mar 12, 2014
Dont buy it, Its ridden hard with 70,000+ miles on it and those front end vibrations mean serious problems.
overbrook
Explorer III
Mar 12, 2014
HarryB1 wrote:

The vibration seemed to appear suddenly as the speed increased and disappear instantly below a certain speed. I'm guessing that point to be about 25 mph.

First, never buy a motorhome until you, not the salesperson, has driven it on the highway and have brought the speed up to 65mph.

If the salesman won't let you drive it, don't buy it. This is especially true with a wide body Class B. The widebody's are known for handling issues.

Second, I recently had a Class B+ on the Ford e350 and it had a similar vibration. In fact, it vibrated so much I thought it was going to shake the side windows lose.

After spending money on new tires, shocks, and alignment, only to have the vibration continue, it was determined that one of the wheels was bent or out of round.

Changing this wheel out with the spare resolved most of the vibration, but not all of it.

The vibration you experience might be from something else - maybe related to the widebody.

In addition to vibration, you'll want to drive the coach yourself so you can experience Ford's bump steer and wander problem (caused by improper alignment), and to look for other handling issues.

But if it were me and if the salesman won't let you drive it, walk away from the deal.

There are plenty of other Class B's on the market, most from sellers who will let you drive them.

Bill
azrving
Explorer
Mar 12, 2014
Did the salesman say the tires are two years old, and they have cracks in them? That just doesn't sound right. Check the date codes on all the tires.
The vibration is most likely from the tires but I would have it checked out before buying. As others said, I would drive it on the express way for many miles or tell them to get lost.
Scottiemom
Nomad
Mar 12, 2014
I would want to test drive a vehicle I was interested in purchasing myself. There is a lot about the way a vehicle "feels" through the steering column, accelerator, etc. I don't always know what it is, but if I feel something, there is definitely a cause.

That said, I would also not be paying for a comprehensive inspection without having driven it myself. And I would not always rely on a dealer inspection. They probably won't drive it either. I would at least want to tell them what I was feeling, etc., so they could find a cause.

Dale
midnightsadie
Explorer II
Mar 12, 2014
salesman lied ,RUN AWAY. thats a bunch of bull stuff about the tires and I never heard of not being able to test drive a rv. this unit has major front end problems and its a money pit. RUN!!! RUN!!!> I have those same tires on my rv run smooth and handle great. your being lied too!!!!.
Handbasket
Explorer
Mar 12, 2014
Salesman's explanation rings somewhat hollow, as they often do. To the best of my knowledge, Michelin doesn't use nylon in the cords of either the LTX or the Rib (their two most likely tires in load range E). Nylon used to be known for flatspotting. I've owned LTX's; didn't like them at all, but it was for poor handling on a class B, not flatspotting. Ribs are all steel, I'm pretty sure.

I'd suspect less-than-perfect balance, a bent rim, or a lot of other less likely culprits.

Considering some Ford E-350's very real reputation for poor drivability in B's and C's, I'd be _very_ hesitant about buying one I couldn't take for a proper test drive my-own-dang-self. Please, do yourself a favor. See the class B forum's FAQ section about the importance of test driving on a 4-lane with fast-passing big rigs, and the importance of checking tire pressures first.

Jim, "Mo' coffee!"

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