gmw photos wrote:
BenK wrote:
Boils down to who the OP believes...or trusts over all of the advice so far
Agree that it 'can' be a mechanical issue with the caliper...as it could also
be an electronic issue with all of the tuff tied together inside the computer system(s)
So much of the advice is based on historically empirical data, but ask if that
includes computer systems and process controls? Even an understanding
of real time and master slave hierarchy...
That is what 'might' be the cause inside of these 'highly integrated' computer
systems
To diagnose these computer systems will require the over all knowledge, a logic
diagram (down to a level of detail to show internal logic for each module, etc)
and a GREAT scan tool (no longer the $500 buck range, but thousands to tens
of thousands of bucks range)
Stuff like with the multiplexed data stream(s) the Master CPU (yeah, gotta understand
master slave on real time metrics here) is not corrupted somehow. Can even be
noise on the power supply or once of the sensory feedback lines, to
a now higher resistance line that messes up the logic timing...and a BIG ETC
So to the OP...do you trust that your mechanic did a good diagnosis and found
nothing wrong with the mechanical brake system? If still worried about that, then
the cheapest at this point is to have 'that' wheel's brake caliper and hose
changed
Or just leave it as is and hope for the best...
Very true, Ben. Which is why I posted up above several posts that for stuff like this in the modern world, I have come to have more confidence that a good OE dealer has a better shot at troubleshooting and fixing this stuff.
Our Ford goes to the Ford shop. The Nissan goes to the Nissan shop. In our case, both of these dealers have been able to fix whatever issue the trucks went in for.
You have been leading a charmed life to find "dealers" which can actually "fix" something.
I spent $2,000 this winter at my local dealer on our '06 F250.
They did not fix the original problem AND they CAUSED additional problems. Took 6 times to the dealer, lost the use of the vehicle for 3weeks of time this winter.
I ended up FIXING IT MYSELF after searching the Internet using the SYMPTOMS I was getting.
First up was intermittent Wrench light which disabled the gas pedal. No codes found, so dealer said they found the fuel filter plugged and the fuel pump was weak. $1000 later and nearly one week of down time, drove it home and the next day once again the dreaded wrench and disable gas pedal while driving..
Back to the dealer and once again no codes.. They find the plugs are shot (80K miles) so they replace those at a princely sum of $700. Back home we go and now we are occasionally smelling RAW GAS in the cab and still getting the Wrench plus now the check engine light..
So, After an Internet search I find that the Wrench and disabled throttle is often caused by dirt build up in the throttle body..
I spent two hrs removing parts to get to the throttle body, clean it with a rag and cleaner and guess what? NO MORE WRENCH.
But I still have the raw gas smell issue.. and a check engine light..
So, back to the dealer where they find bank one cat is clogged..
$300 later and back on the road but still getting the raw fuel smell which is getting worse and a blinking check engine light once and a while.
So, I decided to pull the COPs and I found plug 7 (Bank ONE?) WAS LOOSE, I was able to tighten it by hand a half turn???
That plug was not firing and was DUMPING RAW FUEL INTO THE CAT which is a death blow to any Cat.
Now while that lessened the raw fuel smell we still where having random check engine lights along with a bit of a miss.. So I bought 8 new COPS. But before I put the COPS on I did another Internet search and found others having the SAME raw fuel smell issues.. The problem? The plugs were NOT tightened to proper torque specs.
So, I bought a 3/8" torque wrench and had at it.. Found ALL but #7 plugs GAVE a little bit before the wrench clicked..
Took it for a drive and guess what? NO MORE RAW GAS SMELL!!!!
Those boneheads at the dealer DID NOT USE A TORQUE WRENCH and if I had not found this out I would have been looking at $800 per cylinder if any of those plugs popped out...
Needless to say I could have thrown a lot of parts at our truck and been better off..
Regardless of what you and any others say, the brake controller CAN NOT make one brake on the vehicle get hot. The electronic sway control IS NOT GOING TO MAKE ONE BRAKE get hot.
I HAVE BEEN DOWN THIS SAME ROAD, I have had ONE BRAKE GET HOT and the cause WAS MECHANICAL.
This IS a known problem and can be corrected easily but you HAVE to find a mechanic which is NOT depending on "codes"..
If the OP WANTS to get it fixed right, they need to take it to ANOTHER GARAGE and get it done right. I would suggest that the OP might want to start LEARNING how to service their own brakes.
