We just bought a new motorhome and need to pull our 2013 Ford Escape, front wheel drive. Our last toad was pulled with a tow bar setup, so I'm not familiar with tow dollies. I've seen some have auto-steer??? What the heck is that? I guess I'll have a lot of questions.....As far as towing, do I leave the Escape in neutral or park? Will the rear wheels turn if left in Park? I know I have to leave the emergency brake off.We mostly stay in commercial campgrounds, so do you just leave your dolly hitched to the MH? Or secure them somehow if unhooked?I think I'm getting a headache just thinking about this thing!

We used a tow dolly for more than 21 years. Ours didn't have auto-steer or brakes, and the brakes were the main reason I switched to four-down.If the wheels on the dolly don't steer, you put a tremendous load on the hitch if the overhang on the motorhome is excessive. It actually tried to separate my rear cap from the sidewalls. I don't recommend a dolly that doesn't have wheels that steer.Just like towing four-down, you can't back a dolly with the vehicle on it. Our dolly was light enough that when we had the car off, it was easily moved by hand, even up slight hills. That said, a good dolly with steering and brakes will be heavier than ours was. There were many places I'd remove the car, and then back the dolly into a space where we could secure it.Most of the time I'd disconnect it, put the dolly on the ground and back the motorhome over the tongue of the dolly. When I couldn't secure it that way I wrapped a chain through the holes in one of the wheels and secured it with a lock. That way the wheel would drag after just a few feet. If I did leave it attached to the MH, I locked the links of the safety chain.With a front wheel drive automatic you can leave it in neutral or park, it shouldn't matter. Our car was a manual trans and I always left it in neutral. With either choice, leave the key in the ignition in the unlocked position, because the wheels of the car will turn when the dolly turns.It was a good way to tow many different vehicles (all front wheel drive), but I didn't want the problem of where to keep the dolly in some of the smaller spots we camped in. I've gone back to four-down for a number of reasons, but I understand both choices.

Our dolly wheels don't steer but the "table" pivots. Personally I like this better less moving parts to go bad or out of alignment. Something has to pivot, so either the tires of the dolly, the table or the tires of the car. We have surge brakes on ours which I like because again no changes to coach just hookup and go.Your car will stay in park, front wheel drive so trans affects front wheels not rear, and yes parking brake off and leave steering wheel loked if either wheels or table pivot on dolly.

Do all tow dollies use a ball mount? Those make me nervous with bouncing concerns. I'd prefer a receiver mount like on a tow bar.

ezgoin wrote:Do all tow dollies use a ball mount? Those make me nervous with bouncing concerns. I'd prefer a receiver mount like on a tow bar.Tow dollies use the same type of ball mount that TT, car trailers, etc. use and have a latch that locks the mount to the ball and you can use a padlock to secure the latch so it won't come loose.

I have never seen a receiver mount tow dolly, but that doesn't mean they don't exist.I used a http://www.stehltow.com/Stehltow/Home.html for 3 years until we finally had to replace the car. Then we went 4 down.This dolly has the rotating pan, which works well. Mine came with electric brakes, and I added a breakaway switch.Leave the car in PARK as that locks the transmission and drive (front) wheels, but leave the parking brake off since that would lock the rear wheels.When parked at the CG, we would push the dolly to a tree and use a large bicycle type lock to secure it. If you are in a pull-through spot, absolutely, leave it attached.And FOR HEAVENS SAKE, DON'T LEAVE THE KEYS IN THE IGNITION WITH THE WHEELS UNLOCKED! That is only for dollies that don't have wheels that steer or a pan that turns, and they are rare. That would allow the dolly pan to turn one way and the car to offset by turning the other way causing an offset tow. The car's wheels need to be locked straight ahead. Let the dolly handle all of the turning that is required. If the car's steering doesn't have a lock, tie the steering wheel to keep it from turning.P.S. Be sure to double check the car's manual be ensure that it can be dolly towed. While many front wheel drive cars can be, there are exceptions.

Considering a tow dolly...... Info needed | Good Sam Community

16 Replies

willald
Explorer II
Mar 17, 2014
...One rather 'controversial' way that almost ANY automatic tranny vehicle can be towed 4 down, although you will need to do a lot of research and testing before you do this:

Leave the engine on, idling on the toad, tranny in neutral, when towing. This will insure tranny stays lubricated and you won't hurt it. I admit I personally haven't done this, but I know some that have done it successfully, and I seriously considered it at one point.

Obviously several downsides to this: Mileage will be logged on the toad, and you will be using a little gas in the toad idling it all the time when towing. Not to mention, there is the risk of the toad engine shutting off, overheating, or having other problems you won't see until its too late. You can 'mitigate' that risk some by getting you a wireless camera of some kind, aiming it at the dashboard of the toad, and putting monitor for it up on MH dashboard so you can watch dashboard of the toad.

I know, sounds like a crazy idea, and I'll probably get 'flamed' for even mentioning it, haha. Its definitely not something I'd want to do for a long term, permanent solution.

However, for a temporary solution to use for maybe a year or two until you can purchase a new vehicle that can be flat towed...Knowing what I know now, and if I had it to do over again, I just might take this 'idling' approach instead of fooling with a tow dolly or lube pump like we did. A small, wireless camera is much, MUCH cheaper than a dolly or lube pump, even when you add in the cost of the little bit of extra fuel you'd be using.
Bobbo
Explorer II
Mar 17, 2014
Watch out, there is incorrect information below (above?)!

Hank85713 wrote:
ALL cars/trucks can be towed on a dolly.

This is WRONG! All cars and trucks can be towed 4 up on a trailer, but not all can be towed on a dolly.

Some will require a disconnect of the driveline in some manner if rear wheel drive.

This is true but is a lot of trouble to use a dolly. If I were going to go to that much trouble, it would be for 4 down. It also doesn't address the front wheel drive cars that can't be dolly towed.

Most standard transmissions can be towed 4 down,

This is WRONG! The word "most" is incorrect. "Some" is a much better word here. It varies greatly. Check each car you are considering to see if it can be towed 4 down.

some autos (by "autos" I think he means automatic transmissions) can be towed 4 down.

This is true.

Look in the manual under towing for advice on which method is recommended for the vehicle.

This is wonderful advice.
Hank85713
Explorer
Mar 17, 2014
ALL cars/trucks can be towed on a dolly. Some will require a disconnect of the driveline in some manner if rear wheel drive. Most standard transmissions can be towed 4 down, some autos can be towed 4 down. Look in the manual under towing for advice on which method is recommended for the vehicle. We purchased a 2013 Hyundai elantra with the 6 speed trans for a towed veh. Its light (2600+- lbs) and actually pretty peppy for a 4 cyl. The Hyundai with Auto trans must be transported on a roll on or a trailer/dolly per the manual. Ours does not have any speed/time restrictions nor does it have to be started everyday to circulate fluids! There is the aspect that is the next size down like a nissan versa or any of the little econo boxes. The clutch on ours is VERY light and the throttle is light also so coming from a truck with standard I am still trying to smooth out starts from a stop.
jerseyjim
Explorer
Mar 17, 2014
Doesn't the ESCAPE tow 4-down?
Bobbo
Explorer II
Mar 16, 2014
Many, but not all. Read your owner's manual under recreational towing, or something similar.
Belgique
Explorer
Mar 16, 2014
I tow a '96 Jeep 4 down but the day is coming when it will go to its reward. We have a 2013 Toyota Corolla so am thinking of towing it on a dolly rather than buy another car. Not looking forward to a dolly but it is cheaper than a new car.

Can all front wheel drives be towed on a dolly.? How does one find out if this Toyota can be dolly'd?

Thanks.
ezgoin
Explorer
Feb 26, 2014
Well, after checking out tow dollies in person....... NO thanks. Way too much trouble for me. I'll just wait until I get a tow vehicle I can tow 4 down.

Bill
BTPO1
Explorer
Feb 21, 2014
My older Demco (1980's) steerable dolly tracks perfectly behind my MH, I don't even know that it is there. I leave my Corolla in park with the brakes off and the alarm off and no key in the car. I use electric brakes and a breakaway switch also. JMO
ezgoin
Explorer
Feb 21, 2014
If the dolly has steering capabilities does it track the same as using a tow bar pulling 4 down? Or does it short cut when turning sharply?

Thanks for all the good info, guys. I appreciate it.

Bill
dbates
Explorer
Feb 21, 2014
I’ve pulled a Demco KarKaddy SS dolly for 9 years, almost 50,000 miles and have been very pleased with it. Its wheels swivel similar to the frontend of a car rather than having swivel plates. They are well built, fold down to about 50% of their in use size for storage and the company provides excellent customer service.

Some people have complained about straps coming loose, but if you strap it down right you won’t have that problem.

When I first started using the dolly I strapped the toad down as Demco recommended by pulled the toad all the way forward to the front wheel stop but I found that the straps came loose & I even had one strap come all of the way off. I then realized that the straps won’t slide over the wheels as they are tightened so they remain a little loose behind the wheels and when you started pulling the Toad it slips back leaving the straps loose on both sides of the wheel.

With this in mind, I now pull the toad all of the way forward, back up about an inch then strap it down until the tires squish. As the straps tighten the wheels are allowed to roll forward and the strap tension equalizes on both sides of the wheel. Since I started doing this (over 44,000 miles ago) I’ve never found a strap loose enough to cause a problem. I still check them within 50 miles of start and again each time I stop (about every 2 to 3 hours). Demco doesn’t have a problem with this but has chosen not to change the guidelines in their manual.

Also remember:

1. If your dolly is a little wider than the RV watch those right curbs when parking. I ground the lettering off of the right dolly tire before I realized this.

2. Make sure that you allow plenty of front end room when parking along a curb. If you have to turn too sharply when pulling out the rear of the RV swings in the opposite direction pulling the dolly into the curb causing the dolly wheels to scrap or roll over the curb.

If you have any other questions just "private message" me.

Dave Bates