Contemplating towing

GoalstoDreams wrote:
I will be full-timing in a little over 7 months. I have not yet purchased my RV although I am leaning toward a small Class A gas rig (Winnebago Vista 26P or comparable). I own a 2011 Crown Vic and would like to tow it behind the motorhome on my travels. I've done some initial research but being a single woman, I don't believe (nor completely understand) everything I am reading. Here's what I've learned and/or am planning for:

Looks like the rig's towing capacity is sufficient for the car (capacity 5000 lbs, car weighs in at just over 4100). I plan to install a Remco drive shaft disconnect system in the car so that I can tow 4 down. I also plan to install a brake assist system. I've read that a transmission cooler on the rig is a good idea when towing (especially if any climbing is to be done). I've heard mixed reviews on the Banks systems...some saying it is imperative for extra power on gas rigs; others saying it is a waste of money. And finally, I'd like some advice on what type of tow bar set-up would be best.

Thoughts/opinions on any of this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Moved to Dinghy Towing forum from Towing.

I'd trade the Ford for another toad if I were you and a little Jeep 4x4 would be an excellent choice, whether a Liberty or Wrangler and our preference as well. Go with the NSA READYBRUTE/ELITE setup for simplicity, effectiveness, ease of maintenance and the best bang for the buck. Forget the banks system, as this money can be best spent elsewhere as you go along. Your rig should already have a transmission oil cooler installed and many have some means for the engine oil as well, with ours utilizing part of the A/C condenser. The transmission is the first thing to suffer when overloaded, so if adding the toad's loaded weight to the coach's loaded weight comes anywhere close or below the GCWR, then you should be good to go. Your hitch is most likely 5K lbs max (check it out) and the READYBRUTE'S bars are rated at 8K, so plenty of latitude there.