Dealer installed Dual Cams wrong! Need fix opinions.

x2

Looks much better! glad they took care of it for you.

Update:
Here are some pictures of the work that was done today. We decided to weld in the holes that were drilled incorrectly, grind, repaint and start all over. I'm pretty happy with the results considering everything.

I feel your pain - I had a seriously botched install done by the hitch shop that plagues me to this day. Good news is that the DC works really well once dialed in. Easiest fix is to flip the brackets and re drill properly. THat is what had to be done with mine. Good luck.

Thanks again for all the replies first off! The amount of knowledge found here is great and is why I've been a member here for so long.

As far as the bolts not being in all the way, I have another theory.
I think the "idiot" didn't have a clue what size he needed to drill the holes and drilled to small, making it very difficult to cut the threads. Then basically giving up and throw a tack weld on it.
It's going back Monday morning. I believe I will run without the DC's on.

I could not see the pics at work today.. oh boy...



That front bolt on both sides is doing nothing right now. It could of been pulled out from the DC frame plate bracket flexing so heavy or like mrekim stated, they over torqued it at the install and did a bad job of tack welding it to boot to hold it in. Odds are high the frame is striped now however it happened and that needs to be dealt with.

As I stated before, do not tow with the DC in place. If you want to leave the frame plate on so the dealer can see up close and personal what his shop did, just take the DC arm yoke bolt out to take the cam arm off and leave the frame plate on. Transfer the chains to back of the WD bars and then tow it. It will look like this then, a standard Reese WD hitch, no DC, just your DC frame bracket will still be on.


BTW, you chain plates are on wrong. They need to be flipped around. With the air gap on the bottom and the chain plate hanging out like that, it even more aggravates the flexing of the DC frame plate.

Like this


There is one piece of maybe good news, by this pic your frame tube has a small radius on the corner and they drilled the hole up above the radius. You may have lucked out there.


Hope this helps and good luck

John

One of us has the brackets between the cam arm and the chain wrong too. That's another important one to get right. Yours has the bend in the bracket going "out" and mind going "in". I think it just needs to be turned around.





I think they should look like this (someone please jump in and verify yes/no...)




Also above, when I mentioned that you would not need to clearance the backer plate on the inside of the DC mount - I think I may have been mistaken. If you have a mount like the one one the LEFT you don't need to clearance a backer plate. For one like the one on the right you do.



For the right hand one - even when you clearance the backer plates you may find that the inside and outside are tight to the frame but the center is not. There's not much you can do about that.

One more note, If they agree to put a backer plate on the frame at the outside of the DC mount, have the clearance the outside backer plate like this:




Their backer will have holes where mine has studs. If they don't want to clearance it - and this should be ok too - make sure they clamp the DC mount to the frame top/top bottom before fitting up and drilling the backer holes. The bottom of the backer will be slightly higher than the bottom of the frame, but the DC mount will be flush to the bottom of the frame.


I don't think the inside plate needs this for your setup because the inside is welded on and already at 90 degrees.

I just saw the photos (they weren't there when I did my prev reply).

I would not drive that with the DC setup. As JBarca said before, just use the wd bars and snap-ups.




My wild guess is that the installer stripped out the threads on the frame and then tried to "fix" by tacking the screw to the mount. If the weld was holding the screw to the DC mount at one time, it's not any more.

Also that folded up sticker *could* be a sign that the mount has been rocking back an forth. If that's the case, I can't stress how important it is to prevent that from happening and to not use it if it is happening.

CampingN.C. wrote:
He's been at this dealership for 32 years and is very knowledgeable of the DC and assured me they'd fix it correctly by bolting through the frame with a backer plate and bushings. He's going to bolt the snap brackets as well.

Opinions ?......

If "bushings" are pipe that go through the frame to keep the tube from crushing then it sounds like a good approach to me.

I'm a extra paranoid, but I would opt for backer plates on BOTH sides if they easily fit.

See if they'll do the the bushings and backing plate on both sides of the snap up as well.