jmtandem wrote:
Their first excuse was the controller was bad.
For $1700 you don't need any excuses, you need reasons. You might have just found your issue -- excuses! Take it somewhere else and get it done right.
If you feel comfortable jack up each wheel and turn it by hand while somebody is manually activating the brake controller. You should hear a slight drag before activation, then you should hear the magnet activated and the wheel stop. If you know your way around a volt/ohm meter check the power at each brake. Others have said to drive some miles with the brakes activated, try that as well. A football field size is insufficeint to accomplish that. But, first check the voltage at each magnet and make sure the wire is not broken. Then check to make sure each magnet is activated and the shoes correctly adjusted (a slight drag when turned by hand).
Many of us carry an infrared temp probe (inexpensive at Harbor Freight and other places) and after driving five miles with the brakes activated check to see how hot each brake drum is, each should be about the same. If one or two is/are significantly cooler than the others, you know the first place to look.
three times around a football field, football field is 120 yards, time2 (two sides) 240 yards, times three times around 720 yards, times three feet 2160 feet, 5280 equal a mile, so I towed the trailer with the brakes fully applied for more then a third of a mile, drums were warm, but You can still put the truck in gear, take your foot of the truck brake with the trailer brakes fully applied and the rig rolls across the parking lot.
After spending 1700, not taking it somewhere else to spend more money