P Kennedy wrote:
#1 reason electric trailers brakes don't work is electrical integrity. Scotch Locks should be illegal on certified DOT approved manufactured trailers. All mine are re-wired with a ground wire that is connected directly back to the plug ground connection which eliminates the assumed frame grounding through the hitch connection. #2 the surface that the magnet rides against needs to be clean and that's why it takes a while for trailers that have not been moved for a while to have poor brakes temporarily. Adjustment just as important as everything else which includes shoe to drum diameter match. A proper butt/crimp connected wire with "double wall" shrink tube will last as well as a soldered joint and allow more flex in the wire and joint. Re-wired many horse trailers with serious gravel rash and lasted years before needing attention.
As I stated earlier, this is why I posted the question, I did not know what I needed to know to find the problem with electric brakes.
I rewired the trailer plug, break away switch, and battery years ago using solder and heat shrink with sealant, but never went back to the axles, believing the manufacturer would have done that correctly.
I used a Signal-stat terminal box and no 3-m connectors