Dinghy Towing and brakes

Mine will not record the mileage.
My car has separate lights installed.

http://www.motorhome.com/rv-how-to/dinghy-towing-guide/towing-accessories/

the above article should help. You will need to have wiring from the plug on the back of the RV to the lights on the toad. You should also have a diode.
You can install a switch inside the vehicle to disconnect the battery so you don't have to pull the fuse or disconnect the cable each time.

It should not record towed mileage.

I have a set of magnetic towing lights that plug into the truck's trailer light wiring plug. The magnetic towing lights usually cost around $40 and are available at various auto parts and trailer supply shops, Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply, or from lots of online stores.

Had my Chevy Sonic wired for towing which requires the DLSI fuse to be pulled or otherwise disconnected. I can tell you the car operates just fine with the fuse pulled. And the lights work properly when connected to the motorhome. Very simple to set it for towing.

SoCalDesertRider wrote:
I have a set of magnetic towing lights that plug into the truck's trailer light wiring plug. The magnetic towing lights usually cost around $40 and are available at various auto parts and trailer supply shops, Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply, or from lots of online stores.

you can get the magnetics for about $10 at HF on sale. I will not cut into any of my toads wiring for diodes, etc.
bumpy

bayoubelle wrote:
I have a question, we are new to dinghy towing and we are currently trying to find a vehicle that has the capability to tow 4 down. We have a few vehicles in mind, but have a question concerning the brake lights on the toad.

One vehicle requires you to pull the DLIS fuse and another says to disconnect a battery cable. I am pretty sure this means the tail lights will no longer work.

Will they work once the vehicle is attached to the tow bar or do we need to add special tail lights?

Also, on a side note, will odometer register when we tow?

I wouldn't choose a toad where I had to do things like that. jeeps are very EZ to hook up. 4WD transfer case to neutral, tranny to park and that's it (for most models). some older models may require a key in the ignition to unlock the steering wheel but the newer models have steering wheels that do not lock. if you look at Jeeps make sure the transfer case has a manually selectable neutral position and check the owner's manual before purchasing to be sure it can be flat towed.

all jeeps have extra room in the tail light assemblies for a second bulb to be used in a totally separate wiring harness when towing. that's what we do and it's very simple.

I will not cut into any of my toads wiring for diodes, etc.

I think likewise.

But the Honda CRV's were nifty in that there was an empty sector in the rear light assembly, so I had a separate tail/brake light placed here with its own wiring.

obgraham wrote:

I will not cut into any of my toads wiring for diodes, etc.

I think likewise.

But the Honda CRV's were nifty in that there was an empty sector in the rear light assembly, so I had a separate tail/brake light placed here with its own wiring.

after a disasterous first-time towing experience with diodes I did the same with my Jeep Wrangler...separate tail light bulbs and a totally independent wiring harness for them used exclusively when towing.

rk911 wrote:

obgraham wrote:

I will not cut into any of my toads wiring for diodes, etc.

I think likewise.

But the Honda CRV's were nifty in that there was an empty sector in the rear light assembly, so I had a separate tail/brake light placed here with its own wiring.

after a disasterous first-time towing experience with diodes I did the same with my Jeep Wrangler...separate tail light bulbs and a totally independent wiring harness for them used exclusively when towing.

On the other hand, I've been towing RAV4's since 2008 that I've fully wired using diodes so all rear lights function normally including the high center brake light, with zero problems in 45,000+ towing miles. All of my wiring tie-ins were done behind the driver's side kick panel, with no need to route wires all the way to the back.

Bumpyroad wrote:

SoCalDesertRider wrote:
I have a set of magnetic towing lights that plug into the truck's trailer light wiring plug. The magnetic towing lights usually cost around $40 and are available at various auto parts and trailer supply shops, Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply, or from lots of online stores.

you can get the magnetics for about $10 at HF on sale. I will not cut into any of my toads wiring for diodes, etc.
bumpy

I saw that! They were on sale in the last sales flyer Harbor Freight sent in the mail.