Dingy towing
I have a 2000 Toyota 4-Runner I want to setup for flat towing, it is a 4cyl, 2WD, automatic. (I have a trailer but prefer not to drag it along as well.)Is there a quick disconnet system for the rear d...
Forum Discussion
Hey Dude,
Well, if you do a bit of exploring in the search box for "Drive shaft disconnects", you'll find plenty of threads about the subject. Now, about 75% of the folks that have experienced, used, bought, installed one, WILL NEVER DO IT AGAIN. The other 25% have mixed emotions, some like them and some can take them or leave them.
But many experienced problems getting them to "connect" after they've been towing the car for a while. You see, it's a splined unit, with a sliding collar. In one direction, it's locking (or trying to lock) the two sections of the independent pieces together for a coupled unit. In the other direction, the collar slides away from the "Joint" and, the two parts can spin independent of each other.
Now, first off, since you've messed with drive shafts on your Suzuki and others, you've seen the small, spot welded balancing tabs here and there. Well, I've seen and read of many complaints on the fact that they (the users) have had vibrations on those, partially because of the amount of moving pieces and, the difficulty of balancing the two part into correct phasing.
And, the major complaint is, the fact that the splines get pretty full of road grime, debris, and more. And that makes for difficulty in sliding the collar into place for link-up. Some, have had to continually get under the toad, do some extensive cleaning of the splines etc. just so they could back it away from the coach. And, doing that after a long days drive, in the middle of a campground, possibly blocking access to the campground roads, in the rain, at night, has caused many a sour taste for that system.
Now, as stated, some are quite happy. There will be arguments either way. Although Toyota has made great cars over the years, it kind of fails in the "flat towable" area. In most of the "Dinghy Towing Guides", found in annual issues of Motor Home and Trailer Life magazines, Toyota authorizes very, few of it's fleet to be flat towed. And of the ones it does, absolutely NONE of them are automatics.
Now, in this answer, I'm not speaking from experience, only what's been reported on here, RV.net, IRV2 and, Family Motor Coach forums.
A built driveshaft for your unit if I recall, is not cheap. I think it's in the neighborhood of around $1200 but, don't quote me on that. There was one member on here quite a while ago that had a "Lube Pump" for a Toyota 4-runner including the controls for it and all but, that's a while ago so, I have no idea if anything like that is still available.
And, as you've stated, trailering it is, kind of a pain in the a.. You always have to find a place for the trailer at camp grounds/RV parks and, not to mention, unless you purchase an "ultra-light" aluminum one, a trailer and, your 4-runner will more than likely run you over the towing capacity of your hitch and GCWR. I don't know that for sure, you'll have to do the checking on that one. Good luck.
Scott
Well, if you do a bit of exploring in the search box for "Drive shaft disconnects", you'll find plenty of threads about the subject. Now, about 75% of the folks that have experienced, used, bought, installed one, WILL NEVER DO IT AGAIN. The other 25% have mixed emotions, some like them and some can take them or leave them.
But many experienced problems getting them to "connect" after they've been towing the car for a while. You see, it's a splined unit, with a sliding collar. In one direction, it's locking (or trying to lock) the two sections of the independent pieces together for a coupled unit. In the other direction, the collar slides away from the "Joint" and, the two parts can spin independent of each other.
Now, first off, since you've messed with drive shafts on your Suzuki and others, you've seen the small, spot welded balancing tabs here and there. Well, I've seen and read of many complaints on the fact that they (the users) have had vibrations on those, partially because of the amount of moving pieces and, the difficulty of balancing the two part into correct phasing.
And, the major complaint is, the fact that the splines get pretty full of road grime, debris, and more. And that makes for difficulty in sliding the collar into place for link-up. Some, have had to continually get under the toad, do some extensive cleaning of the splines etc. just so they could back it away from the coach. And, doing that after a long days drive, in the middle of a campground, possibly blocking access to the campground roads, in the rain, at night, has caused many a sour taste for that system.
Now, as stated, some are quite happy. There will be arguments either way. Although Toyota has made great cars over the years, it kind of fails in the "flat towable" area. In most of the "Dinghy Towing Guides", found in annual issues of Motor Home and Trailer Life magazines, Toyota authorizes very, few of it's fleet to be flat towed. And of the ones it does, absolutely NONE of them are automatics.
Now, in this answer, I'm not speaking from experience, only what's been reported on here, RV.net, IRV2 and, Family Motor Coach forums.
A built driveshaft for your unit if I recall, is not cheap. I think it's in the neighborhood of around $1200 but, don't quote me on that. There was one member on here quite a while ago that had a "Lube Pump" for a Toyota 4-runner including the controls for it and all but, that's a while ago so, I have no idea if anything like that is still available.
And, as you've stated, trailering it is, kind of a pain in the a.. You always have to find a place for the trailer at camp grounds/RV parks and, not to mention, unless you purchase an "ultra-light" aluminum one, a trailer and, your 4-runner will more than likely run you over the towing capacity of your hitch and GCWR. I don't know that for sure, you'll have to do the checking on that one. Good luck.
Scott
