do I have the dreaded weak GM OEM hitch?
Truck is 2008 Chev 2500HD. The sticker on the hitch says: 15837632 V-5 GM. I dont have a good picture of it, but a simillar one can be seen here. It's got the round cross bars. Thanks
Forum Discussion
If the OP's receiver looks just like the one in the pic, I don't see what's different from the problem hitches going back to '00.
To the OP, how heavy is your trailer? The primary issue with this receiver is using a WD hitch with heavy 1000 lb+ tongue weights. The design allows the receiver tube to flex, eventually breaking the welds by repeated "tin-canning". One symptom of potential failure is the inability to level the rig with the WD hitch over time. In other words, the same number of links on the WD bars don't get the rig as level as they did when it was new. The reason is that the receiver is flexing, and absorbing some of the WD energy that is supposed to be sending weight fore and aft to level the rig.
Many have reported a more solid ride and less bounce after replacing the factory receiver with an aftermarket.
I would say inspect the entire assembly regularly for cracks and stress and be aware of how the rig levels with WD applied. Alternatively, as Barney notes, you can replace the whole thing fairly inexpensively and be done with it.
To the OP, how heavy is your trailer? The primary issue with this receiver is using a WD hitch with heavy 1000 lb+ tongue weights. The design allows the receiver tube to flex, eventually breaking the welds by repeated "tin-canning". One symptom of potential failure is the inability to level the rig with the WD hitch over time. In other words, the same number of links on the WD bars don't get the rig as level as they did when it was new. The reason is that the receiver is flexing, and absorbing some of the WD energy that is supposed to be sending weight fore and aft to level the rig.
Many have reported a more solid ride and less bounce after replacing the factory receiver with an aftermarket.
I would say inspect the entire assembly regularly for cracks and stress and be aware of how the rig levels with WD applied. Alternatively, as Barney notes, you can replace the whole thing fairly inexpensively and be done with it.
