davisenvy wrote:
My hitch is rated for 1000lbs or 1500lbs with WD. The dealer is selling the Equalizer and a Reese. "We do have them on sale right now and the equalizer E2 system is 475 and the Reese round bar with friction sway is 350." This is what the dealer is selling. I might stop by camping world and just grab one of their EZ Lift round bar systems. They are on sale for $200. I know the reese and equalizer are nice, but I don't think I really need one that nice....right?
Hi,
I know you are trying to get some info to help you sort this out. And I do and can 110% understand why you do not want to get one from your selling dealer. On my last trailer I did not want them to touch my hitch and money had nothing to do with it. They already had no problem with 32 foot camper and a friction sway bar. That said right off the bat, they are throwing in the cheapest hitch they can regardless if the hitch manufacture even declares it proper or not for that application. And at that point my faith they would take the time to drill on the DC correctly was at an all time low.
So I installed my older Reese DC in their yard and as part of the deal and they where to provide 120VAC to run my drill motor. Had to be outside their shop as insurance would not cover inside. No issues for me. In my case I have done several of these and this is not a problem. I had 500 miles to go to get it home and did not want to deal with the what if’s I wish I would of set up the truck right to start with on an unfamiliar TT. I had my 2003 K2500 Suburban then, not the F350 now in my sig.
Now to your situation, Here is the sticker off my BIL’s 2005 Silverado 2500HD. Your 2007 should be just like this. Notice the small plate in the center above the pin box. That is a 2500HD feature to help add more TW rating in non WD mode.
Now look at the receiver I took off my 2003 K2500 Burb. Notice the corrosion hidden until you get it off on the ground.
I live in an area where road salt in the winter is an issue and over time the receiver gets punished big time from it. That rust is in a real bad spot to start a crack running. I see you are in NC so winters I believe are different. If you have ever looked at this vintage GM receiver in operation in non WD mode you can see it flexing a lot, especially backing up. Your 550# or 600# TW when the LP tanks are full will be fully working that pin box in non WD mode for that 6 hour tow. Will it be a problem? Maybe/maybe not, for sure get a mirror and flash light and go hunting for the condition of the receiver if you are even thinking about doing this.
To towing the camper home, by the rating sticker you are inside of the rating. If this was an open flat deck trailer, a boat even a 6 x 15 cargo trailer for me, my concerns would be less however we are talking about a new to you TT, 29 feet long, high profile and worse, 11% tongue weight. The truck will ride better, less bobbing up and down and get less push/roll in the truck from the camper with WD on that 6 hour drive. And you will not be working that pin box on the receiver so much.
To the sway control, if you where a hot shotter who delivers campers for a living they would tow it with WD or without pending the person/insurance company etc. and would not drill on anything to the frame. They however know how their heavy truck handles all kinds of trailers as they tow most everything and they have the skill trained by years of doing this. In your case it “sounds” like this is the 1st time you have hauled this camper with no type of WD hitch or sway controls. Your 6 hours away from home and if there is a problem that is a long time. Speed is part of the critical factor in setting a rig off into sway. 45mph is a turning point where above it things start to become more sensitive. Most of us tow more than 45. Faster then this is when odds are more against us when towing TT’s. If the truck is bobbing on the front from no WD, the high profile camper is pushing the truck and then a heavy wind blast hits you, you do not have the benefits of the WD hitch and what ever type of sway control was added. The trained hot shotter deals with this, however how many times have you?
Then to your last statement about the price difference between $200 and maybe $600 for a Reese DC or Equal-I-zer and do you really need it? You know what you just paid for the new camper, you already have a really good truck, if you plan on towing this camper where ever you want to with no worries, don’t stop short for $400 difference on the hitch. Get your loaded tongue weight up higher 13 to 15%, get the DC or EQ, install it yourself, set it up right and go have fun camping not having to worry about it were ever the road takes you.
I didn’t give you the short quick answer, more of things to help you think though what risks and set up do “you” want accept. And yes, when towing the camper, I have learned go with the side of caution from the get go. A TT is a different animal then an open flat deck or cargo trailer.
Good luck and hope this helps.
John
