Doing without propane

msmith1.wa wrote:
I didn't see any one suggest an extend a stay, or stay longer kit.

Stay Longer

It will allow you to connect a propane bottle to the motorhome system.

way2roll wrote:
Maybe I am missing something but this seems like it's being made overly complicated. If the existing tank is bad, and if it really takes forever to get a replacement built in, a simple device like an "extend a stay" hooked to an LP tank you can get at any grocery store will work. I am not sure what RV you have but I see LP tanks of varying sizes everywhere. Are you saying you can't find a single one to replace the existing tank? Even if the mounting hardware had to be fabricated by a welding shop, it doesn't seem that hard or expensive,

And even before that part of one of my posts

Back when Dad was full time, he had a valve system (Extend-a-Stay?) so he could put a larger tank outside, have a truck come by and fill it. He kept the onboard tanks hooked up, but turned off. (Get up, turn on tank, light furnace not good. Wake up, discover totally out even worse)

I have converted my truck camper to all-electric, but here's my caveat: we enjoy staying in campgrounds and state parks. If we boondock, it's only in temperate weather.

For heat (even when we had a motorhome; and then a 5th wheel) I use a Pelonis digital electric heater. It has a true thermostat, so we can set the temp to 72 degrees and it will keep it there; plus it has tip-over protection that turns it off immediately if it gets bumped. The added bonus: no condensation gets formed. It's dry heat.

No, solar panels will not compromise your roof, not any more than sitting on a chair will compromise the chair, even less in this example.
You will need a hole or entrance through the roof, so that is a compromise, but you already have a lot of holes for vents. The Fridge vent is a hole you can use if needed too.
The weight of a panel is nothing on a roof.

Did I read someone said a new tank is $1,000? No. Shop around. You could even find an RV in a junk yard with a perfectly good propane tank if needed, and pick it up for dollars.

If money is an issue then plumb in the bbq tank and use them, they are cheap and easy to come by. your brother-in-law will give you one just for feeling sorry for you.

Thanks for tip on Pelonis.20 How does a solar panel mount to the roof?

Brownleaf wrote:
Thanks for tip on Pelonis.20 How does a solar panel mount to the roof?

What is the roof made from? Various types require different fastening. My roof is some sort of membrane, so screws were needed.

I beefed up the panels with aluminum angle riveted to the longest sides.I recommend that to all who wish to attach the panels permanently.

Of course, all penetrations were treated with dicor.

Other types of roofing may be able to use VHB tape.

For electric heating I use oil filled radiators.

I carry one heater with a fan, and one radiant heater (useful for thawing frozen compartment doors and the like.

I can heat 100% electrically at -37 c (-34 f). It does take LOTS of watts to do so.

Deb and Ed M wrote:
I have converted my truck camper to all-electric, but here's my caveat: we enjoy staying in campgrounds and state parks. If we boondock, it's only in temperate weather.

For heat (even when we had a motorhome; and then a 5th wheel) I use a Pelonis digital electric heater. It has a true thermostat, so we can set the temp to 72 degrees and it will keep it there; plus it has tip-over protection that turns it off immediately if it gets bumped. The added bonus: no condensation gets formed. It's dry heat.

Propane furnace is dry heat also. The combustion does not occur inside the living space. It's completely vented via the exhaust pipe.

Though if on shore power, we also supplement with a small electric space heater as they usually don't meter the power and it extends the duration of a tank of propane.

ajriding wrote:
No, solar panels will not compromise your roof, not any more than sitting on a chair will compromise the chair, even less in this example.
You will need a hole or entrance through the roof, so that is a compromise, but you already have a lot of holes for vents. The Fridge vent is a hole you can use if needed too.
The weight of a panel is nothing on a roof.

I hear people say this but the most common end of life issue for RVs is roof leaks causing rot.

In theory if you are religious about it, it can be OK but it adds more holes and more places you can miss a leak. Back in real life, yes, it increases the chances of leaks.

Honestly, I would love if they switched to mini-split air/con units and wall mount vents, so you could largely eliminate roof penetrations. That would eliminate a lot of roof leaks.

Friends of ours have a small C and just converted the heat over to diesel heat. They also converted the propane generator to diesel. Expensive, but they are propane free.

Im going to attempt to refurbish the tank and in the process will discover how deep that rust is. First I am going to have my Onan taken it out as it is not cost effective to repair it. Doug

Brownleaf wrote:
Im going to attempt to refurbish the tank and in the process will discover how deep that rust is. First I am going to have my Onan taken it out as it is not cost effective to repair it. Doug

Take it to a place that refurbishes tanks. Have them check it before the effort is made to save it.

For the Generator replacement I'd consider a champion 3400 with remote electric start.