E2 vs Equalizer vs Blue Ox
I have a decision to make. I currently have a Husky round bar, with 800# bars and a single sway. My older truck which got wrecked, worked perfectly with this hitch and trailer, but my replacement 201...
Forum Discussion
I have a 4 point Equal-i-zer hitch system. For what it's worth, I don't hear any noise coming from my hitch when towing. Now granted, I'm driving a 3500 diesel duly, which drowns out any noise behind the truck, so I don't know what kind of noise it makes.
Equal-i-zer makes two little pads that fit on top of the L-brackets on the tongue of the trailer. The bars rub against them, instead of bare metal to metal. This greatly reduced that metal rubbing sound. Check here.
I do occasionally get a "pop" sound some somewhere. I never figured it out if its the hitch system or something else. But as far as "noise", no ... I don't think it makes any more than my old Reese WD hitch that used the bars and chain links.
As far as hitching, once the Equal-i-zer is installed and adjusted correct, hitching is extremely simple. Just jack up the tongue attached to the tow vehicle till the bars slide over the L-brackets. Snap in the L-pin, and lower the tongue. I usually lift the bars with my foot to rest on the L-brackets. Of course, the secret is to be able to jack the tongue up high enough. I NEVER use that cheater bar.
It takes a whopping 3 minutes to hitch up completely. From the time the ball of the hitch is under the trailer coupler, and then begin to lower the coupler onto the ball, I'm hitched, with safety chains and lights plug attached in less than 3 minutes. The longest time is waiting for the electric tongue jack to raise and lower. AND ... it's always set exactly the same every time you hitch. No guess work any more either.
The 4 point has the built in sway control. It requires friction against the metal parts against each other. You never want to oil or lube these places (Namely, where the bars and L-brackets touch each other). But those pads work great!
Equal-i-zer makes two little pads that fit on top of the L-brackets on the tongue of the trailer. The bars rub against them, instead of bare metal to metal. This greatly reduced that metal rubbing sound. Check here.
I do occasionally get a "pop" sound some somewhere. I never figured it out if its the hitch system or something else. But as far as "noise", no ... I don't think it makes any more than my old Reese WD hitch that used the bars and chain links.
As far as hitching, once the Equal-i-zer is installed and adjusted correct, hitching is extremely simple. Just jack up the tongue attached to the tow vehicle till the bars slide over the L-brackets. Snap in the L-pin, and lower the tongue. I usually lift the bars with my foot to rest on the L-brackets. Of course, the secret is to be able to jack the tongue up high enough. I NEVER use that cheater bar.
It takes a whopping 3 minutes to hitch up completely. From the time the ball of the hitch is under the trailer coupler, and then begin to lower the coupler onto the ball, I'm hitched, with safety chains and lights plug attached in less than 3 minutes. The longest time is waiting for the electric tongue jack to raise and lower. AND ... it's always set exactly the same every time you hitch. No guess work any more either.
The 4 point has the built in sway control. It requires friction against the metal parts against each other. You never want to oil or lube these places (Namely, where the bars and L-brackets touch each other). But those pads work great!
