Forum Discussion

duponts's avatar
duponts
Explorer
May 13, 2013

EAZ-LIFT WD bar adjustment

I have an Eaz-Lift WD hitch system. I am trying to obtain the correct adjustment on the hitch but have been having a tough time. With two links hanging free on the WD bars, the rear of the tow vehicle is 1" lower and the front 1/2" higher than without any trailer hooked up. It seems that with more links hanging free the more level the rear becomes (I had 1 link hanging free at first but the rear sagged even more, but I can't pull anymore links as that is as tight as it gets and I have the hitch lifted up quite a bit to accomplish this. How do I get more links free on the bars? I have heard that if I add washers to the title head angle that might help but I'm not certain if I need to add washers or remove some. Please help.
  • I also use EZ lift set up. Couple things: I would personally feel 1" lower in rear with 1/2" higher in front would be a good set up. You can take too much weight off the truck and cause other issues. Some weight is good.

    Second, if you need more "free links" (I too count them) you can use the trailer tonge jack to give you some lift. I do this after the trailer is attached to the hitch (ball). Lifting will give you some room to get more links.
  • As a rule 1 washer for head tilt is the same as adding removing a link. I you need to keep your bars parallel to the tongue you can add/remove a washer and respectively add/remove a link.
  • Does adding a washer add or remove a link on the chains? My trailer tongue jack is raised all the way and I can only hitch up with two links hanging.
  • Your goal should be to get the front axle of the truck the same height/weight as unhitched, not 1/2" higher. Don't bother measuring the rear. It has nothing to do with WDH adjustment. To increase WD tension, fewer links under tension and more rearward angle to the hitch head. I drop the tongue on the ball, latch, use the tongue jack to raise the rear of the TV to at least unhitched height, then snap my WD bars. Sometimes I can do this by hand, but I usually a pipe for leverage. If your jack does not go higher, put a block under it.

    TT level to slightly nose down. TV front axle same with WD as unhitched. That's all.
  • I've got an EAZ-Lift too. It's hard to know if you have enough or too much tilt to your hitch head by your description?

    Here is how my rig looks before the bars are on.



    Note that the hitch head has a tilt to it.

    When it's hitched up, I have 3 links hanging. I can go to 4 links hanging if I want, but it's too much tension at 4...



    I raise the rear of the truck several inches above it's unloaded height to put my bars on. I still need a cheater bar to snap up the brackets. When I lower, it levels me out pretty good and it handles very well towing.

    Good luck!

    Mitch
  • duponts wrote:
    Does adding a washer add or remove a link on the chains? My trailer tongue jack is raised all the way and I can only hitch up with two links hanging.


    Does your TT have the bottom mount coupler. My last TT had the bottom mount style coupler. When using an EAZ-Lift in order to get the bars parallel to the tongue I needed to be on the last link.

    Is this your style coupler?http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler/Atwood/82680.html
  • duponts wrote:
    I have an Eaz-Lift WD hitch system. I am trying to obtain the correct adjustment on the hitch but have been having a tough time. With two links hanging free on the WD bars, the rear of the tow vehicle is 1" lower and the front 1/2" higher than without any trailer hooked up. It seems that with more links hanging free the more level the rear becomes---
    If you are towing with the 2004 Suburban mentioned in a previous thread,
    Chevrolet specifies that the WDH should be adjusted to return the front end as close as possible to its unhitched height.
    You probably need to go to three links hanging free.

    You don't need to have the WD bars parallel to the A-frame, especially if you have the Ultra model with trunnion sockets for the WD bars.
    A better criterion is to have at least five chain links under tension.

    ---(I had 1 link hanging free at first but the rear sagged even more, but I can't pull anymore links as that is as tight as it gets and I have the hitch lifted up quite a bit to accomplish this. How do I get more links free on the bars? I have heard that if I add washers to the title head angle that might help but I'm not certain if I need to add washers or remove some. Please help.
    Adding one washer might also provide the necessary chain tension, but you still need to get the TV/TT high enough to snap up the bars.
    It might be simpler to place a bock of wood under the tongue jack in order to raise the TV/TT another inch or two so you can snap up the bars with three links hanging free.

    Ron
  • That block of wood in the pic with no bars is what I use under the jack.. Actually, I use 2 of them! I can just get both blocks under the jack. Lift up, put the bars on and lower. I have several more inches of clearance after the bars are on... ;)

    Mitch
  • Thanks for all of your help. I will try to add a few blocks of wood to get my jack higher and lift my vehicle up higher so that I have 3 chain links hanging free and then check the tension. @goducks10- I have a top mount ball coupler. I had a bit of sway my last trip and I think this will help along with adding a left side sway controller to match the right since my trailer is 32' long.

About RV Tips & Tricks

Looking for advice before your next adventure? Look no further.25,102 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 17, 2025