en the hook up Bracket. Is that how it is?

thehippie wrote:

downtheroad wrote:
OK, let's start with the manufacturer or model of you hitch...Equal-i-zer, Reece, BlueOx, etc....then you will get more accurate information.

Reese

Yes, look up the manual. You can crush the tongue frame easily, so don't listen to guesses. On such model number says this:

Position the snap up brackets on trailer
"A" frame so that the chain on the end of
the spring bar is approximately vertical.
Turn 1/2 X 3-1/2 bolt until it contacts frame.
Then tighten 1/4 turn with wrench.
DO NOT
OVERTIGHTEN

I run a Reese trunnion bar WD system and did find the frame brackets could "walk" a bit so I pinned them to the frame with small self tapping screws and haven't had any further issues. In fact, Reese offers a 2 Bolt Kit #58459 specifically for this purpose ... scroll down and you'll find the installation instructions which do indeed describe how to use these bolts to pin each frame bracket to the trailer's A-frame so they can't shift.

The OP is talking about the bolt on the inside part of the snap-up bracket. It is a single bolt that contacts the A frame. I should be tightened only enough to keep the snap-up from moving around when there is no tension on it and it will also help keep the brackets from sliding forward or backward when the WD bars move during a turn.

The movement of the WD bars forward and backwards during a turn is the reason for the minimum of 5 links under tension requirement of most manufacturers. If less than 5 links are used, there is not enough length to allow the WD bars to move without dragging on the snap-up brackets and causing them to slide on the A frame.

Another reason for not over tightening that bolt is that it can deform the snap-up bracket making it prone to bending when the chains put unusual force on them such as entering a gas station, a steep driveway, or going over a RR track rise.
There have been numerous posts about that happening, especially with heavy tongue weight trailers that require 1200-1500lb WD bars.
In those cases, the hitch manufacturers recommend thru bolting the snap-ups to the A frame using the two bolt holes in the brackets.
Post with picture of this.
Barney

BarneyS wrote:
The OP is talking about the bolt on the inside part of the snap-up bracket. It is a single bolt that contacts the A frame. I should be tightened only enough to keep the snap-up from moving around when there is no tension on it and it will also help keep the brackets from sliding forward or backward when the WD bars move during a turn.

We know exactly what the OP is talking about but the point is that even though properly tightened those frame saddle brackets can still shift. Pinning them solves that and as mentioned Reese offers a 2 bolt kit specifically for this purpose and it's not just for particularly heavy weight systems.

I said it would help keep them from sliding and gave the main reason in the next paragraph. :R
In addition, the bolting on with through bolts has nothing to do with the brackets sliding. It has everything to do with the brackets bending. I doubt very much if those threaded bolts in that kit would hold the brackets from bending out of shape with an overloaded situation. They would most likely just pull out.

The purpose in posting that was to help educate some members who do not realize the reason for the 5 chain link minimum requirement between the snap-up brackets and the WD bars.
Barney