Engine temperature while towing
I guess I'm old school, but I had always been taught that if the temperature gauge moves up towards hot, you pull off and let it cool down. I'm pulling a 32' Keystone Cougar X-Lite that is 6700 lbs em...
Forum Discussion
Haven't read the responses and just some techie on why and how...
Heat, especially higher temps, age things. Every thing. Shortens their
life span.
It takes energy to move all that weight. More as you go faster. Even
more when you go up inclines. The faster and steeper it is, the more
energy it will take. Factored by the weight...more requires more energy
ICE's are only, at best, 40% efficient (2 cycle diesel). Gassers are
even more in-efficient. That only a percentage of the heat generated
by the cylinder combustion is put to the pavement. The rest is rejected
via the various cooling systems
Then the losses. Pumping losses in the engine. The hydraulic coupling
losses of the automatic. Less when it is locked up, but there are
losses in the gearing. Ditto the diff and transfer case (if you have one)
Both the ICE and automatic has their own computer these days. Both
have safety set points where they will NOT allow power mode...to then
drop down into lesser and lesser till it reaches limp mode
Those safeties mainly use component/system temperature levels as their
set points as to when it will phase back power
Heat rejection is via the main coolant radiator, which has in most
cases (or with the tow package) has engine oil radiator inside that
main radiator. Ditto ATF radiator inside the main radiator and with
the tow package...adds another external ATF radiator
Many say today's vehicle are: "good for it"...yes, but I like to keep
below their maximum's for longevity and the biggie for me: Power mode
Also like to keep it just above the set point when it goes from open
loop control to closed loop control. Hot enough to pass smog in Calif
and low enough to have plenty of margin for power mode, which will
heat it up quickly if left in WOT for long
So to answer the OP's question...yes your thoughts good. Pulling
over and turning off heat generating accessories. Even turn on the
heater (that is another radiator).
Heat, especially higher temps, age things. Every thing. Shortens their
life span.
It takes energy to move all that weight. More as you go faster. Even
more when you go up inclines. The faster and steeper it is, the more
energy it will take. Factored by the weight...more requires more energy
ICE's are only, at best, 40% efficient (2 cycle diesel). Gassers are
even more in-efficient. That only a percentage of the heat generated
by the cylinder combustion is put to the pavement. The rest is rejected
via the various cooling systems
Then the losses. Pumping losses in the engine. The hydraulic coupling
losses of the automatic. Less when it is locked up, but there are
losses in the gearing. Ditto the diff and transfer case (if you have one)
Both the ICE and automatic has their own computer these days. Both
have safety set points where they will NOT allow power mode...to then
drop down into lesser and lesser till it reaches limp mode
Those safeties mainly use component/system temperature levels as their
set points as to when it will phase back power
Heat rejection is via the main coolant radiator, which has in most
cases (or with the tow package) has engine oil radiator inside that
main radiator. Ditto ATF radiator inside the main radiator and with
the tow package...adds another external ATF radiator
Many say today's vehicle are: "good for it"...yes, but I like to keep
below their maximum's for longevity and the biggie for me: Power mode
Also like to keep it just above the set point when it goes from open
loop control to closed loop control. Hot enough to pass smog in Calif
and low enough to have plenty of margin for power mode, which will
heat it up quickly if left in WOT for long
So to answer the OP's question...yes your thoughts good. Pulling
over and turning off heat generating accessories. Even turn on the
heater (that is another radiator).
