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borninblue's avatar
borninblue
Explorer
Jun 02, 2016

Equalizer Help-Cat Scale Weights Included

I'm trying to dial my WDH in on my 2014 Ram 2500. I am towing a 2016 Jayco 27BHS. Went to the scale as I heard that is the most accurate way to make adjustments. Here are my numbers:

Truck:
Steer Axle: 3980
Driver Axle: 3400
Gross: 7380

Trailer & Truck with WDH not engaged (bars hanging)

Steer Axel: 3560
Drive Axel: 4800
Trailer Axel: 6500
Gross: 14860

Trailer & Truck with WDH Engaged:

Steer Axel: 3780
Drive Axel: 4460
Trailer Axel: 6620
Gross: 14860

I currently have 6 washers in the WDH and I can go down one more slot on my shank. These weights were with a trailer loaded with water. I was not in the vehicle at the time it was weighed each time. Any help for this newbie would be greatly appreciated!

8 Replies

  • If the bars are level and the trailer is level just add one more washer and call it a day. But if that makes the trailer too high then drop the shank one hole. Or just leave it as is. I am about 150 lbs lighter on the front end with no ill effects in 22,000 towing miles.
  • borninblue wrote:
    Need-A-Vacation wrote:
    Was your tt and truck bed loaded as it normally would be for a trip? Sounds like it was only you at the scale and not the whole family?

    TW- 980lbs
    TT- 7480lbs

    It looks like you could transfer another 200lbs to the front axle. How many links do you have under tension? Possibly try making the bars tighter by one link to see what the results are weight wise. Then if all good, you could add a washer and return the number of chain links back to the current amount.

    What model wdh do you have? If a round bar, are the bars fairly close to being parallel with the tt frame/tongue? If a trunion, make sure the bars angle are such that the bar end (at the hitch) clears the tt frame- more so an issue if a top mounted coupler, if a bottom mount coupler usually is ok.


    The model I have is the equalizer 14k with sway bars, no chains.I believe I have one more hole the bars can drop. I can raise them though. I have one more hole left to drop in my shank.

    It was only me at the weigh station, and I was not inside when they weighed it. Bed was loaded, with the exception of firewood. I placed level on both bars and they are level.


    Adding a washer to the hitch head or raising the tongue brackets a hole will give you pretty much the same results (per talking to Equal-I-Zer a while back) transferring a little more weight to the front axle.

    As for dropping the hitch head a hole on the shank, how level is your trailer currently? It is generally suggested to have the trailer level, or slightly nose down for a more stable tow. If you are already level or slightly nose down it doesn't sound like you need to adjust the height, but it is a possibility after adding more tension to the wd bars it wouldn't hurt, especially since you were lacking some firewood in the bed (if behind the axles).

    Do you have a side pic of your rig all hooked up?
  • Community Alumni's avatar
    Community Alumni
    You are on the right track. Try to put more weight on the front axle.
  • Need-A-Vacation wrote:
    Was your tt and truck bed loaded as it normally would be for a trip? Sounds like it was only you at the scale and not the whole family?

    TW- 980lbs
    TT- 7480lbs

    It looks like you could transfer another 200lbs to the front axle. How many links do you have under tension? Possibly try making the bars tighter by one link to see what the results are weight wise. Then if all good, you could add a washer and return the number of chain links back to the current amount.

    What model wdh do you have? If a round bar, are the bars fairly close to being parallel with the tt frame/tongue? If a trunion, make sure the bars angle are such that the bar end (at the hitch) clears the tt frame- more so an issue if a top mounted coupler, if a bottom mount coupler usually is ok.


    The model I have is the equalizer 14k with sway bars, no chains.I believe I have one more hole the bars can drop. I can raise them though. I have one more hole left to drop in my shank.

    It was only me at the weigh station, and I was not inside when they weighed it. Bed was loaded, with the exception of firewood. I placed level on both bars and they are level.
  • Was your tt and truck bed loaded as it normally would be for a trip? Sounds like it was only you at the scale and not the whole family?

    TW- 980lbs
    TT- 7480lbs

    It looks like you could transfer another 200lbs to the front axle. How many links do you have under tension? Possibly try making the bars tighter by one link to see what the results are weight wise. Then if all good, you could add a washer and return the number of chain links back to the current amount.

    What model wdh do you have? If a round bar, are the bars fairly close to being parallel with the tt frame/tongue? If a trunion, make sure the bars angle are such that the bar end (at the hitch) clears the tt frame- more so an issue if a top mounted coupler, if a bottom mount coupler usually is ok.
  • You have about 200 pounds less weight on the steer axle with WDH engaged. I would back off a little on the hitch and try to get your weights on the steerer axle back to within 100 pounds of so of what is was with no trailer hitched.
  • I'm not sure how the weights help someone dial in an Equalizer. Have you done any measurements of how much the truck has dropped at both front and rear wheels?

    I used measurements this way to dial mine in on our former TT and it was one of the most stable rigs I've ever pulled.

    That Work & Play had a 1500 lb. tongue weight.