Equilizer L-Bracket Moving

Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. The first thing I am going to check is the torque on the hitch head bolts as suggested above. I might have the one side too tight.

W.E.BGood wrote:
Campin LI...I and quite a number of other Equalizer users I know for a fact have used this little fix VERY successfully, and for at least several years. All the "fix" does is lift up the "L-pin" and keeps it from pinching and binding on the weight distribution bar as it slides front to back. The only function of the pin is to keep the bar from sliding off of the "L-bracket". Trust me on this one.
Regards, BGood

Looks like you may have been on to something. Read the text with the new version L-pins here

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=116

Thanks!

Next time I hook up, I'm going to give it a good look. I'm pretty sure my bar gets sandwiched in pretty good making for a real snug fit with no perpendicular motion, which I prefer. Maybe it is not all that big a deal if it is or isn't that way. I'm not really sold on it. Even the bars of a Reese dual cam setup rest inside the cam with lips on both sides to prevent perpendicular movement and they don't leave a lot of room on their design. To me, should the trailer start to sway, the bars may not move for some amount, there bye making it harder to control or...........
the whole sway control thing is a big marketing scam and it really does not matter.

I don't know how to calculate friction forces and I don't know whether or not the friction force generated by a hitch is anywhere close to enough friction to prevent, slow or stop a trailer from swaying.

Campin LI...I and quite a number of other Equalizer users I know for a fact have used this little fix VERY successfully, and for at least several years. All the "fix" does is lift up the "L-pin" and keeps it from pinching and binding on the weight distribution bar as it slides front to back. The only function of the pin is to keep the bar from sliding off of the "L-bracket". Trust me on this one.
Regards, BGood

W.E.BGood wrote:
Ron...your problem MIGHT be the bars binding in the L-brackets (that's what happened to me a few years ago). Attached is a diagram created by member "thefulminator" over on Outbackers.com that solved it...I use some 10" bungie cords from Lowes for the elastic band. No more bent brackets or screaming bars.

I wouldn't do this because I think the pin getting turned and lodged in at an angle is what keeps the bars sandwiched up against the inside edge of the L-bracket With the introduction of that perpendicular movement, there will likely be a loss in sway control. During a sway event, the connection of the bar to the hitch head will resist the sway and not want to move but the bar resting on the L-bracket will allow the trailer to sway back and forth while the bars are not moving.

It may however help to solve your problem in that the bar will move perpendicular to the L-bracket and the moving parts will never really wear in together because you are introducing movement in a perpendicular direction. It will result in more wear on the the parts and you will lose some sway control. I don't think the benefit outweighs the losses.

I'll try to elaborate with a little more info than my first post had.

The entire hitch is friction based. The heavier the tongue weight of the trailer, the more friction there is to resist sway. Most of the friction to resist sway comes from the connection of the bars to the hitch head.

In your case, the bracket that holds the L-bracket is bolted around the A-frame. When bolted together, the friction between the bracket and the A-frame is supposed to prevent the bracket from moving. The less contact between the bracket and the A-frame, the less friction there is. The bar rests on the L-bracket and when you turn there is friction between the bar and the bracket. Now making an assumption that your hitch is new or newly installed, there is a break in period. During the break in period, the steel starts to mate and parts start to wear and groove together. This break in period increases the friction between those moving parts. This is why you have a left and a right bar that you do not want to switch.

My guess is that during the break in period, the friction generated between the bar and the L-bracket has increased to a point where the resulting friction force exceeds the friction located between the A-frame and the bracket that hold the L-bracket. I believe that the fool proof way of overcoming this problem is to through bolt the bracket to the A-frame or have it welded on except that welding is more permanent. Another option would be to grease the contact point between the L-bracket and the bar (as noted above, most of the friction to prevent sway comes from the hitch head to bar connection). You could also lighten the tongue weight, but that may have negative affects on the stability of your ride.

I am guessing you are talking about the bra cent the holds the L? I have not had any troubles with mine but if the bracket on the frame is as tight as it can be you should be ok. Not sure what the directions call for but mine is as tight as I could get it.

Good info BGood, I'll check into this.

Mine did that 1 time and I didn't bother with the torque specs, I just cranked the bolts down as tight as possible and had no further issues.

Ron...your problem MIGHT be the bars binding in the L-brackets (that's what happened to me a few years ago). Attached is a diagram created by member "thefulminator" over on Outbackers.com that solved it...I use some 10" bungie cords from Lowes for the elastic band. No more bent brackets or screaming bars.

Drew_K wrote:
Have you checked the tightness on the hitch head that holds the stabilizer bars? There is a bolt on the underside of the hitch head for the drivers side and another for the passenger side. This may be a long shot, but maybe the drivers side is too tight, which in turn is putting too much friction on the L bracket.

Good idea, I'll check into that.