Factory GM Brake Controllers

My 2011 GMC 2500HD IBC works great. I have it set to 4-4.5 and pull a 10,000lb travel trailer. With our previous trailer and P3 controller, it worked well also.

The only problem that I have had with IBC is on one trip, I had to pull over and reseat the plug (trailer cord into truck). It seems to be sensitive to that connection for some. It only happened to me once and has never had any other issues.

If something fails that causes the IBC to no longer work, I would be comfortable using the P3.

NJRVer wrote:
Just hope part of the "system" doesn't go bad because then the whole integrated controller shuts down.

Had that happen to mine in July '16. The part wasn't available to fix it so I had to wire in an aftermarket controller in order to tow.
The dealer did finally call me the beginning of Jan. '17 to tell me they had the part now if I wanted to bring my truck back in to have them fix it.:R

Thank you for the feedback...not enough understand that going "highly integrated" is a nightmare to diag (they usually just replace module after module) and a simple thing can bring the whole system to its knees...not drivable or worst case...dangerous to drive

I like a controller that is integrated with my foot like the factory controllers. Those that rely on your ability to slow down to activate never made sense to me. Having brakes respond to foot pressure on the pedal should make the OP happy. There might be folks that think that they should feel the trailer yanking them to a stop instead of an almost seamless braking action.

I pull a 9,800 (or so) 38" Grand Design with a 2016 Silverado with the factory brake controller. Starting at 1, I set the controller to enable smooth stops. I found that a setting of 4.5 works perfectly on mine.

I haved towed with my 2012 some pretty heavy loads on a gooseneck trailer and never a problem with the GM controller .

hawkeye-08 wrote:
My 2011 GMC 2500HD IBC works great. I have it set to 4-4.5 and pull a 10,000lb travel trailer. With our previous trailer and P3 controller, it worked well also.

The only problem that I have had with IBC is on one trip, I had to pull over and reseat the plug (trailer cord into truck). It seems to be sensitive to that connection for some. It only happened to me once and has never had any other issues.

If something fails that causes the IBC to no longer work, I would be comfortable using the P3.

I also pull close to 10,000 lbs and the setting of between 4 and 5 is where I'm at as well.

Instead of continuing a dialogue on this via PMs asking about my comments from past posts on this topic, here are the answers to your questions...

Master Cylinder pressure sensed brake controllers (several after market have gone out of business and repeat I'll not touch my TV's brake hydraulic system for anything like this) has the trailer brakes lead the TV's brakes because of the PSI build up ramp.

Meaning that the brake pedal stroke has the MC PSI build up over the distance of that pedal rod stroke (there is time curve on that too). The TV's brakes won't be doing anything till a min level of braking system hydraulic pressure is attained....but if the IBC senses MC PSI and is set to 'sense' a lower PSI...it will turn on the trailer brake controller before the TV starts to brake.

Once the MC Pressure builds to the point that the TV's friction materials PSI is high enough for them to create friction on the cast iron (get into the braking game)...the trailer brakes has already been braking. Of course this requires that the trailer brakes and wiring are in good order


Here are a couple curves showing graphically what am talking about


Rod stroke vs wheel brake PSI...this curve shows the brake pedal to MC rod travel distance vs PSI developed


Brake system PSI over time or vs TV brake pedal stroke

Pascal's Law (hydraulic pressure ratio) showing why the MC piston stroke must be much longer before the brake caliper/cylinder even moves enough to press the friction material hard enough onto the cast iron to create braking friction




That is the 'seamless' comments vs my comments that most folks who complain about their after market trailer brake controllers 'buck', 'bang', etc does NOT have their system set up correctly



While the accelerometor sensed (P2/3) relies on the deceleration of brake controller sensor *AFTER* it has been turned on

Meaning that they sense the TV brake pedal light switch and a properly setup brake pedal switch will turn on the P2/P3 *BEFORE* there is ever any MC pressure generated (turns on the P2/P3 before the IBC will turn on)

Really boils down to how closely your TV brake pedal switch can be or is setup vs brake pedal movement.

GM has a nifty switch that senses (trips my P3 on) with less than 1/64" movement of my brake pedal and about 1/16" before the MC piston rod engages to *START* developing MC PSI...

Not saying the P2/P3 are better for EVERYONE, just me...and again, I'll not touch my braking hydraulic system...nor do I like 'HIGHLY INTEGRATED ANYTHING' for my vehicles...

I've had one situation where I had to slow quickly to make a turn that came up on me, and I can tell you, this one experience taught me that the IBC in my GMC Sierra is not as in tuned as my Prodigy P2....the darn truck could barely make the turn with me on the brake, and the camper pushing. I didn't think making this turn would be an issue, as I have done it before with the P2 and never felt the camper pushing. Lesson learned.....keep going and find a spot to turn around and loop back.

Beer Belly wrote:
I've had one situation where I had to slow quickly to make a turn that came up on me, and I can tell you, this one experience taught me that the IBC in my GMC Sierra is not as in tuned as my Prodigy P2....the darn truck could barely make the turn with me on the brake, and the camper pushing. I didn't think making this turn would be an issue, as I have done it before with the P2 and never felt the camper pushing. Lesson learned.....keep going and find a spot to turn around and loop back.

You didn't learn, you need to adjust the controller or service the brakes.

I do a test pull with the IBC in my 16 Silverado before trips. Set it to max gain, and squeeze the tabs together at about 25 (residential street). Just about plants your face in the steering wheel. 18k fusion 405 5th wheel TH.
Sounds like a setup issue - if switching controllers fixed it.