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Cooter_76's avatar
Cooter_76
Explorer
Oct 08, 2014

First tow with new TT

The DW (that stands for Deranged Woman, right?) and I recently purchased our first TT. I'm not new to towing in general, but this was my first experience with a WD hitch, electric trailer brakes and a trailer with such a large profile. After we purchased the trailer I towed it 200 miles to my parents' house near the TX coast (mostly interstate and mostly with a headwind.) The experience was OK, but I certainly can't claim that "I almost forgot the trailer was back there." The truck felt a bit...wallowy and the trailer would easily get sucked-into the airflow of any passing 18-wheelers. I'm hoping to get some advice to help dial-in my setup.

The WD hitch is a standard round-bar type with a friction sway control. The RV dealership installed the hitch on the trailer and had the head/stinger setup prior to installing on my TV. I took a pre-hookup front wheel well measurement of 37.5". We hooked-up the trailer and put the full weight on the truck (bars not installed) and I took another measurement at 38". Was surprised to see only 1/2" movement. The technician set the chain length on the WD bars so that the front wheel well was back to 37.5".
After about 20 miles, my seat-of-the-pants gauge said there was too much float going on in the rear end, so I lengthened the chains by one link, which brought the front end to 37.75". That helped, but the truck still felt like it had too much lateral movement.
I'm running the original P275/65R18 tires that came from the factory. I'll probably step up to a stiffer tire when the time comes to replace these.
After comparing my setup to other pics I see on RV.net, I think my trailer is setup with the nose too high. How much difference in towing performance would there be between a trailer that's a bit nose-high vs level (or a bit nose-low?)
Regarding the friction sway control adjustment, the Technician said just tighten it up, but not too tight (pretty precise instructions.) I may not have had it tight enough. The label on the sway control says to run-out all of the threads on the adjustment bolt. Any opinions here?

Would appreciate any suggestions.

Here are some pics of my setup for reference:



27 Replies

  • OK, sounds like I need to drop the hitch by one hole at the shank, tighten the sway control and slow down.

    Thanks for the advice!
  • Having towed with the W/D setup and sway control most dealers include with a trailer I can tell you that switching to an Equal-I-Zer made a world of difference. We travel portions of I-5 on almost every trip and get plenty of semi-suck and high winds. Manageable but not all that comfortable with our dealer supplied unit, but once I installed the Equal-I-Zer it was like night and day. I even let the DW (you had it right)drive and after a few minutes she was perfectly comfortable. Best $500 you can spend.
  • There is a "sticky" that will help you to start;

    http://forums.trailerlife.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/17730894.cfm

    If your brand of hitch is not listed I would suggest an internet search for it and read what the specific maker recommends. The same thing applies to the friction sway control device as you were lacking and some adjustment is possible.

    Some of what you describe is normal and the product of physics but it can be improved. There are also better hitches available than what you were provided. There are several choices in integrated WD/sway control hitches that are popular with forum members including me that provide much better performance.

    As to the nose high or low, level is the desired position but if that is impossible slightly nose down is preferred and can have significant impact on the trailers behavior.

    Concerning the tires, LT tires can make a big difference but you must ensure your wheels are compatible as well.

    ST trailer tires have a max speed limit of 65 mph and that is another whole discussion.

    You have much to learn but you have come to the right place.
  • From your pictures, it looks like you need to lower the hitch head about one hole to get the trailer to tow level. Level is just right but if you must be off a bit because of lack of adjustment, then slightly low in the front is preferred. Never tow with the front of the trailer raised because that will tend to encourage sway.

    I would go back to the number of links that you started with as that restored the weight lost off the front axle of the truck when you hooked up.

    As far as towing speed goes, the faster you go the more tendency to sway. The tires are most likely rated for a maximum speed of 65mph so you should limit yourself to that speed or below. I have been towing for years at 60-65mph and have never had a problem with either sway or tires.

    The instructions that came with the friction sway control bar you have are correct. That handle is supposed to function like an on/off switch and not an adjustment device. You are supposed to tighten that top control as far as it will go and then back it off until the handle is parallel to the Trailer A frame. Doing that will always give you the same amount of sway control. Any adjustments to that amount of sway control are done with the small bolt located at the bottom of the bar and below the large handle. You turn that adjustment bolt in 1/4 turn increments to adjust the amount of friction/sway control.

    We have an excellent sticky at the top of this forum that will help you set up your hitch if you feel you need it. It is located here.

    Hope this helps you a bit. :)
    Barney
  • Trailer should sit level. In your picture it appears to be nose high. Drop it one hole on the shank.
  • Glad to see you used sway control. However, we run 60, sometimes up to 65. When towing that much weight, a TT setup, probably should not be towing that fast. Others do, and yes, on occasion we've hit 70, but mostly stay in the 60-65 range (tops).

    It took us time to get used to the feel of a 30 foot long brick behind us.
  • Follow-up question: How fast do most people tow their TT? I was running 65-70 mph (in a 75 mph zone.)

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