Front wheels locked
Yesterday I was towing my Jeep Wrangler (4 wheel drive standard) behind the Motor Home Same as I have done for 12 years. And the front wheels locked tight, before I could get stopped & off the road w...
Forum Discussion
The CV failure account sounds like the one I heard about here. Title was something like "Transfer Case Exploded."
I wonder what he's towing the Jeep with. I left our Toyota Tercel manual shift in gear once and felt it as soon as the Class C started to move.
He says the Jeep seems normal right now. The car that the scenario I described happening to me was a 10-year-old 1980 Corolla. Rear Drive, Front Disc/Rear Drum, Manual Shift, probably 125,000 miles. It drove fine "cold", either in the neighborhood or on the highway for the first dozen miles or so. When it cooled, it drove OK again. As hot as those brakes got, I don't think I replaced the pads or calipers, at least right away based on the brake-apply problem. The flex hoses, especially the front ones, can collapse internally and cause a caliper to drag, but I don't see the odds of BOTH failing and locking BOTH wheels at the SAME time. As I said above, I can see a caliper problem contributing to the fluid getting hot and applying both brakes IF the fluid can't escape back into the master.
In MY case the master had a fluid restriction. I HAVE seen mis-installed masters where the Booster pin went too far in, and I HAVE seen binding Brake Pedal Linkage. Anything keeping the master cylinder piston from going all the way back to the snap ring that holds the piston in.
If that Break Away is really connected to the Parking Brake, well... OK... but most of the parking brakes I've seen are about as effective at stopping a moving vehicle as dragging your foot.
If Break Away cable is in any way connected to the Pedal or the Front Brakes, it'd be a prime suspect. It doesn't have to lock them, only heat them up and block the fluid return to the master. At that point events would take care of themselves and apply the brakes like what happened here.
I wonder what he's towing the Jeep with. I left our Toyota Tercel manual shift in gear once and felt it as soon as the Class C started to move.
He says the Jeep seems normal right now. The car that the scenario I described happening to me was a 10-year-old 1980 Corolla. Rear Drive, Front Disc/Rear Drum, Manual Shift, probably 125,000 miles. It drove fine "cold", either in the neighborhood or on the highway for the first dozen miles or so. When it cooled, it drove OK again. As hot as those brakes got, I don't think I replaced the pads or calipers, at least right away based on the brake-apply problem. The flex hoses, especially the front ones, can collapse internally and cause a caliper to drag, but I don't see the odds of BOTH failing and locking BOTH wheels at the SAME time. As I said above, I can see a caliper problem contributing to the fluid getting hot and applying both brakes IF the fluid can't escape back into the master.
In MY case the master had a fluid restriction. I HAVE seen mis-installed masters where the Booster pin went too far in, and I HAVE seen binding Brake Pedal Linkage. Anything keeping the master cylinder piston from going all the way back to the snap ring that holds the piston in.
If that Break Away is really connected to the Parking Brake, well... OK... but most of the parking brakes I've seen are about as effective at stopping a moving vehicle as dragging your foot.
If Break Away cable is in any way connected to the Pedal or the Front Brakes, it'd be a prime suspect. It doesn't have to lock them, only heat them up and block the fluid return to the master. At that point events would take care of themselves and apply the brakes like what happened here.
