getting to zero degrees F in RV fridge.
It is amazing what can happen when you follow the manufacturers written installation instructions. A couple months ago I spent a few hours and fixed the installation of the RV propane/electric fri...
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Standard clearances for good installations
Side walls........0" (zero)
Top ..............0" (zero)
Back wall ........1" MAX
No dead air spaces, no gaps, fridge should have a tight fit into cabinet area.
Air flow should go up thru absorber tubes (large slanted tubes) and then go across condenser fins before being vented out of compartment.
Lower Vent/Roof Vent allow for Natural Draft (Chimney affect)
Lower Vent/Top side Vent disrupt draft so fans are required to aid in air flow.
Fans should be just above absorber tubing pulling air in lower vent and then blowing it up/across condenser fins and then out.
Baffles should be used if back wall clearances are too wide. Below absorber tubing and above condenser fins (direct/curved/slant as needed)
Standard Guidelines from Norcold-----works for Dometic too
Side walls........0" (zero)
Top ..............0" (zero)
Back wall ........1" MAX
No dead air spaces, no gaps, fridge should have a tight fit into cabinet area.
Air flow should go up thru absorber tubes (large slanted tubes) and then go across condenser fins before being vented out of compartment.
Lower Vent/Roof Vent allow for Natural Draft (Chimney affect)
Lower Vent/Top side Vent disrupt draft so fans are required to aid in air flow.
Fans should be just above absorber tubing pulling air in lower vent and then blowing it up/across condenser fins and then out.
Baffles should be used if back wall clearances are too wide. Below absorber tubing and above condenser fins (direct/curved/slant as needed)
Standard Guidelines from Norcold-----works for Dometic too
