Forum Discussion

StreetGlo's avatar
StreetGlo
Explorer
Sep 23, 2013

Happy Ending to an expensive worm gear slide out problem`

Hello,

I thought I'd post this since my experience could be the same for any user with a motor driven worm gear slide out mechanism.

Early on after buying my used Winnebago Sighseer 30B, my punch list of things to fix was mostly inexpensive and easy to fix items, that is until about the 30 day mark my slide out stopped with an error code 10 (no power to rear slide out motor).

Well I tried for months to get a decent quote on fixing it. The best I could get was about $1600.00 for parts and labor (no good sam warranty unfortunately).

Anyhow, I finally reached the point of digging deep in my pockets but had a second thought and decided I'd go for broke and maybe mess up the whole thing trying to fix myself. I was lucky.

Anyhow what I did was get under the unit and I pulled the whole thing out. I opened the slide out then propped it up so that dropping the extension arm and whole unit wouldn't let the slide out move out of place. It is held in place by only 4 bolts to the frame and two sets of bolts connecting the end to the slide out face. Remove these 8 connections and pull apart two wiring connectors at the motor and you can drop the whole slide out in your hands.

I had a hard time getting the motor detached from the worm gear so I called my local alternator repair shop and the tech agreed to look at the motor connected. So I carried the whole unit to him and he was able to remove the bell housing and repair the motor. ALl it needed was resoldering as I'm sure a lot only need something as simple. The tech said it's rare the windings burn up but even if they did it's a lot cheaper to rebuild the motor than to buy a replacment at $600.00+ dollars.

Well he resoldered the motor and eliminated the internal crimp connections with solder connections. He buttoned it up and charged me $60.00. The unit had given me an encoder error 11 a few times so I bolted on a new encoder costing $55.00 (4 bolts is all you have to work with to replace it) and I put the whole assembly back under the coach.

Perrrrrfecton! The units function was restored and it has been flawless ever since. Total cost $110.00 verus $1600.00.

The point here is some things are simpler than you might think. Last year I would have never considered pulling out part of the slide out myself. Don't be afraid of these mechanical worm gear slide out assemblies. They are simpler than they seem and the alternator repair guy said $600.00 for the motor was outrageous. I agree. I didn't pay that or the other $1000.00 the dealer wanted for labor.

Now if I can be as lucky with other things that will eventually go wrong as nothing lasts forever, especially a 2002.

Bill

10 Replies

  • Here's the whole slideout removed.



    The connector dangling off the back is the encoder which I replaced with 4 bolts. The frame has 4 mounting points that bolt to the underside of the coach. On the end of the worm gear, it's fully unassembled. However, you dont' have to take off all the hardware. On the coach basement frame there are 4 bolts that only need to be removed to pull the whole assembly. I didn't know this at first so if you pull it, on the wormgear end side you will have a plate left attached (not shown here).

    Bill
  • Well I didn't keep accurate per minute records, but to sum it up, it took me about 2 hours to pull it, and an hour at the alternator rebuilder, and about an hour putting it back on. The reason it too me 2 hours to pull it was half the time was studying it. They look more complex than they are.

    SO if it took me 4 hours, I'm guessing a real pro could do it in 2 hours or thereabouts. WIth the $1000,00 labor quote I had, the tech was trying to get $500.00 per hour is how I figure it. $1600.00 was the lowest quote I had which included a new $640.00 motor.

    Bill
  • Just for curiosity did you record the time spent repairing it. From the time you started till the time you finished, including time to go to and return from the motor shop. At $90/100 an hour just would like to know how much if you had hired it out. Labor is the killer but inflated parts prices don't help. Great that you saved all that money. Like you, I don"t like paying for something I can fix.
  • Alfred622 wrote:
    I think this is a really important posting! Thanks for recording your experiences here. Perhaps your posting will be found by others doing a search in the months and years ahead. If you happened to take any photos while you were doing the work (photos for yourself to remember how to reassemble things), posting them here would be a really nice thing to do. But, even without photos, your description helps greatly!


    I did take photos of the unit after I pulled it out. So yes, I will repost the photo of the assembly but unfortunately I didn't document my work because at the time I figured I was "going for broke" knowing this could have also been a disaster.
  • Thanks for the comments folks. Yes, Thats_Ok I do smile every time it opens or closes. For 2 months I had to hand crank out that slide and it is a workout not to be forgotten!

    RVUSA, The problem wasn't current draw. He resoldered all the connnections but the suspect was the crimp connections internally to the motor. Those he suspected were open circuit so he eliminated them. The inside of the motor was clean as a whistle, so overheating in this case was probably not it. The brush connectors were soldered by him verus friction lugs and there were wirenuts in the wiring cap assembly which he soldered as well. The motor runs like a champ now. Thanks!
  • Chances are it melted its solder due to high current draw due to binding. Or the motor itself could be too small for the job...

    Get yourself a clamp on current meter and watch the current draw on both the in and out travel. You may be able to get the guy that fixed it for you to find out what the locked rotor draw is and suggest what the average current draw should be for the motor.

    Point is, it's not common to melt the solder in the armature. So you would be wise to find out whats causing it to get that hot.
  • The plan came together!

    Good on you Bill.
    I'll bet every time the slide extends out and moves in there's a little smile there.
  • Thank you for the report. Good job.
    Welcome to RV.Net.
    Scott
  • I think this is a really important posting! Thanks for recording your experiences here. Perhaps your posting will be found by others doing a search in the months and years ahead. If you happened to take any photos while you were doing the work (photos for yourself to remember how to reassemble things), posting them here would be a really nice thing to do. But, even without photos, your description helps greatly!
  • that's one thing about owning an RV, if you are not mechanically inclined, you soon will be. Glad everything worked out well for you. Who knows what it may have really cost you had you gone to a dealer