how do you keep sewer tank clear
What is the best way to keep the sewer tank from sludging up and valves working. I don't like using chemical additives, especially the ones with formaldehyde. Heard it was good to add a little olive o...
Forum Discussion
Here is my system for lubricating both sides of the blades and the groove of both of my cable operated drain valves including the toilet flush blade/ball valve. Been doing this for 19 years, still have the original drain valves and seals! I do this at the beginning of each season and occasionally in mid season.
First drain and flush both tanks to flush out all solid matter. Close both dump valves.
I have a 3 inch termination cap that has a garden hose bib, attach a small plastic garden hose ball valve to the hose bib to act as a control valve, install the cap on the end of the RV drain pipe with the hose bib/control valve at the bottom position. Shut the control valve. Attach a short piece of drain hose/bucket if desired. I just let it drain onto the gravel next to my RV concrete parking slab.
Put about 5-8 gal of water in each tank (just make sure that you have more than 3 inches in the black tank and more than 1 1/2 inches in the grey tank). Put a pint of mineral oil in each tank. (about $2.50/pt at Wally World pharmacy) When you put it down the toilet with the water turned off, pour a little amount onto the blade (or ball) open and close it slowly, repeat 2-3 times to completely coat and lubricate the flush valve, when you put it down a sink/shower drain that has a "P" trap use a lot of water to flush it out of the "P trap. (Remember that he oil will be floating on the top of the water)
There are 231 cubic inches/ gal of water. If you know the width and length (even the approximate measurements) you can calculate about how many gals to put 1 1/2" and 3" in your tanks.
Open the black tank drain valve about 1/2 way. This will fill the cavity between the drain valve and the termination cap. Open the control valve a small amount, you want a very slow stream of water SMALLER than pencil diameter. Remember that the oil will float on the top of the water. As the water SLOWLY drains out occasionally cycle the drain valve open/close, leave the drain valve about 1/2 open until the next time to cycle it. As the oil/water interface lowers this will ensure that both sides of the blade and the groove is coated with oil. I have always been been able to feel the ease of blade movement when the oil is coating the blade.
Repeat doing the gray tank drain valve.
To lubricate the cable I just pull out the handle opening the valve, apply a few drops of light weight oil to the exposed shaft, operate the valve a few times, repeat a couple of times every year, after a few cycles capillary action will siphon the oil full length of the cable.
First drain and flush both tanks to flush out all solid matter. Close both dump valves.
I have a 3 inch termination cap that has a garden hose bib, attach a small plastic garden hose ball valve to the hose bib to act as a control valve, install the cap on the end of the RV drain pipe with the hose bib/control valve at the bottom position. Shut the control valve. Attach a short piece of drain hose/bucket if desired. I just let it drain onto the gravel next to my RV concrete parking slab.
Put about 5-8 gal of water in each tank (just make sure that you have more than 3 inches in the black tank and more than 1 1/2 inches in the grey tank). Put a pint of mineral oil in each tank. (about $2.50/pt at Wally World pharmacy) When you put it down the toilet with the water turned off, pour a little amount onto the blade (or ball) open and close it slowly, repeat 2-3 times to completely coat and lubricate the flush valve, when you put it down a sink/shower drain that has a "P" trap use a lot of water to flush it out of the "P trap. (Remember that he oil will be floating on the top of the water)
There are 231 cubic inches/ gal of water. If you know the width and length (even the approximate measurements) you can calculate about how many gals to put 1 1/2" and 3" in your tanks.
Open the black tank drain valve about 1/2 way. This will fill the cavity between the drain valve and the termination cap. Open the control valve a small amount, you want a very slow stream of water SMALLER than pencil diameter. Remember that the oil will float on the top of the water. As the water SLOWLY drains out occasionally cycle the drain valve open/close, leave the drain valve about 1/2 open until the next time to cycle it. As the oil/water interface lowers this will ensure that both sides of the blade and the groove is coated with oil. I have always been been able to feel the ease of blade movement when the oil is coating the blade.
Repeat doing the gray tank drain valve.
To lubricate the cable I just pull out the handle opening the valve, apply a few drops of light weight oil to the exposed shaft, operate the valve a few times, repeat a couple of times every year, after a few cycles capillary action will siphon the oil full length of the cable.
