How Long is too long

The E350 should work great. What motor does it have?

Wheelbase to trailer length ratio rule of thumb......per iirc RV Consumer group...

Min WB for towing anything is 110". Maximum trailer length is 20'. For each additional 3 or 4", you get another foot.

With this in mind, this is was for a typical car half ton truck in 70s. Realistically, this will still work for rigs with manufacture gvwr under 6000-7000 lbs, with a typical 5' of rear overhang.
From my standpoint and $.02 opinion.....
If you have a heavier chassis, you can add 3' or so per DOT truck classification you are heavier than a class 1 or ld2. An 8 lug 2, IE what most call a 25 or 3/4 ton to 10k, add 3', a class 3, 35 or 1 ton, 10,000-13500 giver, add 6' to ratio.
If rear over hang is less than 5', to centered over RA, IE 5w, or gooseneck, you can add another 3-6' or so. If longer, like a 15 passenger Ford van, with a long 7-8,' overhang, shorten a bit.
Likewise, the minimum WB of 110"....give me a freaked break! I know of a former moderator that towed a trailer with his Honda Goldwing! So subtract a foot per 3" below the 110" WB!

Again, this is a rule of thumb, a guideline etc. Use at your discretion! Or not!

Marty

So it looks like to get the camper we want I will have to use my Wife's Ford Econoline E350 ( The Suburban has a much better ride and comfort.

I'm pulling a 27 with a 1500 Suburban. The only issue would be weights. My wet weight is in the realm of 6800 (dry 5800). The burb does OK. I added Sumo SuperSprings to the rear and love, love, love them. Wouldn't tow more than around the block without them. Make sure you're within your weights. I imagine that the average 31 might be pushing the stock limit on weights, depending on your model Suburban. Don't assume anything. Look for placards that give specific numbers. The door jamb on the burb will tell you your weights. Then find the placard on the trailer that give the dry weight. Then add for the extra stuff you'll carry. I add a 1000 to be safe. I know we are well under that, it's just the two of us and a couple of pug dogs.

Make sure you service that differential. For some reason they don't seem to have the longevity you might expect. I service my transmission at every oil change, that is I do a drain and fill. It takes 4 quarts, or so. I keep my fluid fresh. It's cheap insurance. The 4L60e gets a bad rap but when serviced properly it holds up as good as any.

I towed that same size/weight TT with a 145" WD F150 Max Tow. It was "Just okay". It required my full attention 80% of the time. Unlike when I traded up to a 2500 where the TT no longer moved the truck around. TT still wiggled a but, but the 2500 was firmly planted to the road.
I towed the 1st combo for 2.5 years and about 10,000 miles throughout Oregon and Norcal. Never really had the scary white knuckle say your prayers moment. Just never felt like the truck and TT were always on the same page.
If you're dead set on that TT then I would suggest making sure your tires are D or E rated and you add something to the rear suspension to stiffen it up a bit.
Also I would suggest the best friction sway control based WDH you can afford.
IMO a Hensley Arrow or Pro Pride would be the ideal WDH for you setup.
Spendy but the towing will be fantastic.

outdoordb wrote:
I'm not sure what you mean by "but could struggle to stay within payload with a 31' trailer on a Suburban.

A longer trailer means (generally) a heavier trailer...A heavier trailer means a heavier tongue...A heavier tongue eats up payload. That's what I mean. I don't buy into the generic wheelbase argument (as PP said, there are different formulas people spout, but as far as I know none of them are listed in the specs of the vehicles). There are, however, very specific formulas on weight, and my comment is that 31' is going to be hard to do while staying in those numbers.

For example, our 2500 Suburban has 2,200 pounds of payload available. A standard 1500 Suburban will be closer to 1,400 pounds or so (that's a guess - you'd have to look at the sticker in your door jam to know for sure). That 1,400 pounds has to account for tongue weight, passenger weight, hitch weight and cargo weight. Similarly, your 7,400 tow rating doesn't account for passengers, hitch weight, cargo, or even some of the later mods to your vehicle - which means your real capacity for towing is more likely in the 6,500-7,000 trailer weight category. And that's if you are willing to run at 100% of your GCVWR (which some are, but many aren't).

So, a lot of it depends on specifics, but my point is that getting a 31' trailer to fit within the weight specs will be difficult. Whether you choose to care about that or not is another question, but I was simply pointing out that it will be hard to stay within the numbers.

If you have to ask, then it may be a bit much for you, but not the truck.
I hook my 6000lb boat, 32’-7000lb sled trailer and heavier flatbeds than that with a 1500 Silverado. Prefer the Dodge but the little Chev does fine with it.
2016 5.3.

You’ll probably want a little help with the rear springs, I prefer stiffer tires but P tires work and I wouldn’t leave out a wdh since it could be too much tongue weight for long distance towing.

Your biggest problem will be rear end squat with that rig. Even if your within specs, it will likely settle more than is safe for good handling.
If you proceed, prepare yourself for possible rear suspension upgrades.

mkirsch wrote:
Folks will tell you length is an issue, but they will not produce a formula or any data to support such a claim.

They will also tell you a full size extended cab 6.5' bed 1500-series pickup is too short to tow, but a full size extended cab 6.5' bed 2500 or 3500-series pickup is plenty long enough. THEY ARE THE SAME EXACT WHEELBASE AND LENGTH.

Weight is the issue. Ideally you should find out your weights now and see just how far over the ratings you are already, before deciding on an even heavier trailer.

IMHO 7000lbs is about all you really want to tow with a 1500-series truck or suburban and expect reasonable comfort. You can often tow more but it quickly becomes less and less comfortable to drive long distances.

Notice I said NOTHING about "safety" up to this point. Safety is rarely the issue. You will get annoyed with the lack of comfort long before you put yourself or anyone in any danger more quantifiable than simply hitting the road with the family in the Suburban to go to church on Sunday.

If weight is the issue,than safety quickly becomes the issue.
An overloaded rig is unsafe.

Folks will tell you length is an issue, but they will not produce a formula or any data to support such a claim.

They will also tell you a full size extended cab 6.5' bed 1500-series pickup is too short to tow, but a full size extended cab 6.5' bed 2500 or 3500-series pickup is plenty long enough. THEY ARE THE SAME EXACT WHEELBASE AND LENGTH.

Weight is the issue. Ideally you should find out your weights now and see just how far over the ratings you are already, before deciding on an even heavier trailer.

IMHO 7000lbs is about all you really want to tow with a 1500-series truck or suburban and expect reasonable comfort. You can often tow more but it quickly becomes less and less comfortable to drive long distances.

Notice I said NOTHING about "safety" up to this point. Safety is rarely the issue. You will get annoyed with the lack of comfort long before you put yourself or anyone in any danger more quantifiable than simply hitting the road with the family in the Suburban to go to church on Sunday.