mrekim wrote:
I bit the bullet and bought a 1 7/8" 3/4" drive socket and "T-Handle" breaker bar.
Hi mrekim,
If you still need help with this and you have a 1/2" torque wrench that will go say 200 ft lb or even 150, I can offer some help.
I do happen to have a 700 ft lb torque wrench. And there are other proven methods of obtaining the correct torque. If you can get it to a known 150 or 200, you can scribe a line in the nut and head and I can get you the nut rotation required past that torque to get 450. We just need to know if we are talking lubed threads ( and what kind of lube) or dry threads.
For what it is worth, have done the 225 lb guy on the end of a 2 foot breaker bar and then went back and checked it with a torque wrench for 450 ft lb. The torque wrench check pulled morem almost a 1/2 rev, to get to 450. While the 225lb guy got it close, it was not 450 when I checked it directly after. Exactly why I do not know, there is some loss in the wind up I guess. And calibration tolerance in the wrench.
Also a tid bit I have not yet seen listed. Fastener torque does offer a proper tightness effect which helps with anti back off, however on a fastener the torque per the fastener material also creates a preload stress in the joint. This preload is most important as it prevents fatigue of the bolt which can over time lead to bolt failure. Towing on the ball can be considered having a loading and unloading effect that can and will put stretch on the ball from stops and starts if not tighten correctly. If the torque is correct, then the bolt tension is high enough that the bolt does not stretch each stop and start cycle.
Another tid bit is lubed threads verses dry. Those are 2 different torque specs. Lubed can require approx 20% less torque to obtain the same preload in the bolt compared to dry.
Hope this helps
John
