How often do you need to tighen your hitch ball?

Only once when I replaced it years ago. I used a pipe wrench, considering I already had one.

Yes I carry the sockets and a 3/4" breaker bar and 24" pipe.
Never had to use them after the first instal but I feel better having them with me.

I installed all of my hitch balls with a 16 inch adjustable open end wrench ("Crescent wrench" Oddly enough, I had one made by Crescent tool Co.!), with a 4 foot cheater bar on the handle. None ever came loose.
At that time, I only weighed 180 to 200 lbs.

Until I bought my 3/4" socket set, I used an 18" pipe wrench on the nut. Standing on the 18" wrench with my ~300lb girth = 450 ft-lbs.

If you adjust the pipe wrench properly, so that it grips the flats of the nut, it will leave minimal marks on the nut.

You can also buy individual box-end wrenches in the larger sizes at Sears, Lowes, and other places, rather than having to buy a whole set of sockets.

All you need is the socket, 1/2" breaker bar and 3' piece of pipe or anything like 1" sq tubing. You just need some extra leverage. "Give it all you got Scotty" and you'll be fine.

I tightened mine with a very large closed in wrench and check it with a torque wrench. I only had to do it once as it has never come loose.

BenK wrote:
Will make an extension
for my 250 ft/lb 1/2" drive torque wrench...if you have the mind and tooling in
your workshop. It will have a 3/4" at the socket end and 1/2" at the
torque wrench end

I was searching around for something like this, but couldn't find one.

BenK wrote:

Mrekim...Harbor Freight or Northern Tool has 3/4" socket sets that can
handle this. Not good enough for professional, all day, 365 days/yr
usage, but okay for occasional usage

I've had hit or miss success with Harbor Freight, but this might be worth a shot since we're probably not near the end of the torque these tools are supposed to support.

Used to have a 'good' 3/4" torque wrench, but loaned it to a church friend and
he dropped it...his wife made him pay for after he refused to after finding out
how much it cost me

Didn't use it that much anymore, so no longer have one. Will make an extension
for my 250 ft/lb 1/2" drive torque wrench...if you have the mind and tooling in
your workshop. It will have a 3/4" at the socket end and 1/2" at the
torque wrench end

Any OEM production will fire any worker who does NOT use a properly dialed in
torque wrench. Especially ISO certified

Anyone ever wonder why tire shops only (good shops) have the manager/supervisor
torque the lug nuts back on? Won't allow the 'tech' to do it...it is
an insurance mandated thing

How many tons are back there only held on via the ball ? While traveling at
highway speeds...and that is on the good days...Mr Murphy lives out there and
gets potentially anyone...not just 'the other guy'...

Mrekim...Harbor Freight or Northern Tool has 3/4" socket sets that can
handle this. Not good enough for professional, all day, 365 days/yr
usage, but okay for occasional usage

DUNEBUGGYDOUG wrote:
Just tighten it good with whatever tools you have , no need to get too technical.I been towing whatever for sixty plus years and never had a ball come loose.We have way too many urban myths on the site.

I would have, but the biggest socket I have is 36mm. All 1 7/8 sockets seem to be 3/4" drive or above.

BenK wrote:

A four to five foot long breaker bar with 100 lbs at 12 inches from the pivot.

150 lb person 3 feet from the pivot for 450 ft lbs right?

BenK wrote:

Suggest you take the shank & head to a RV or good mechanic shop and ask them
to tighten it. Some will do it for free...others for not much $$$

I'll call around to a few local shops. I'm guessing that most garages in my area don't have a torque wrench that goes that high.