Installing 50 Amp in garage

Tom/Barb wrote:
I must ask,, If you must ask what Box? I wonder about your ability to instal.

Read his post again. He's hiring an electrician. He's just trying to round up parts. Then all the self righteous came marching in right on schedule

"One other thing while not a biggie, is nice to have and that is a weather tight box that can be closed when the plug is in place. It does not mean most big box stores don't carry such boxes, but I have never seen one in a big box store."

Home Depot is where i bought this.

My breaker is in the panel about 30' away. I DO make the trek to turn off the breaker before pulling the plug. Not 100% LEGAL but it works just fine for ME.

Ralph Cramden wrote:
How is the AHJ even going to know the OP is having a buddy install an RV receptacle inside his garage? If I lived in a AHJ where they nickled me with a permit every time I added a recepatacle or needed to swap my water heater out I doubt I am reporting it, buying a permit, or turning myself in LOL. These boards sometimes get hilarious.

There is a heck of a big difference between a person doing something anyway they want versus someone telling them it's not required by code when they have no idea what that person's codes say.

Look at it this way, there is nothing wrong with telling people you drive 95 mph on I-10 all the time and never got a ticket compared to telling that person it's legal to drive 95 mph on I-10.

There is a lot of good information here and it was even mentioned that you should have a disconnect which is very smart. Most circuit breakers are not listed as "switchable", a simple disconnect is preferable. There are RV specific panels with disconnects or switchable CBs, they are a little more but worth the money in my opinion.

It is not good practice to connect or disconnect while the outlet is hot. A hot disconnect can damage your outlet contacts and/or the shore cord plug blades.

One other thing while not a biggie, is nice to have and that is a weather tight box that can be closed when the plug is in place. It does not mean most big box stores don't carry such boxes, but I have never seen one in a big box store.

I have a bit of experience in the electrical field and I didn't think nor did I really plan ahead when I installed my outlet and I forgot about the cover closing and the disconnect. I have lots of stuff laying around and did install a 20 amp outlet in the same box as my 30 amp outlet, very, very handy to have. I do prefer 20 amp 120 vac outlets for exterior use and inside the garage. While few of my power tools use more than 15 amps, all my outlets outside and cords run cool.

Remember that Google is your friend and now that you know what, you can find where.

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Charlie D. wrote:

schlep1967 wrote:
I have this one. 50 amp receptacle
It closes over the cord and the breaker is right there so you can turn it off before hooking/unhooking.

Get this and you can ignore the rest of the suggestions being put forth. One neat and clean installation.

NOTHING wrong with that but if all the guy wants to do is plug in his 50a RV then there are many less expensive alternatives.

The one I showed is cheap and will do the job just fine.

I agree but we don't know the location of his breaker. If the breaker is close then it would meet his needs. I have seen people plug/unplug because the breaker was not at the box location. Might call that "lazy" or indifferent?

ItsyRV wrote:

Range Maggot Bob wrote:

ItsyRV wrote:
Make sure your electrician friend provides you with what is needed by code. Where I am, RV outlets need a switch at the receptacle or the breaker within 6 unobstructed feet of the receptacle. Many get dinged because of the lack of the "switch" which does make sense when you think of the cable on the ground situation.

Being able to plug/unplug your cord at the receptacle is the same thing and will pass code.

Every jurisdiction has the right to impose requirements above and beyond what a commercial national code states. There is no one and only one way this can be written in local codes, so there is no way anyone can say that it is or isn't required. Only the licensed electrician or AHJ at that jurisdiction can tell a person what is and isn't code. That is why it is always recommended to suggest checking LOCAL codes as routine advise!

How is the AHJ even going to know the OP is having a buddy install an RV receptacle inside his garage? If I lived in a AHJ where they nickled me with a permit every time I added a recepatacle or needed to swap my water heater out I doubt I am reporting it, buying a permit, or turning myself in LOL. These boards sometimes get hilarious.

Same outlet as a dryer. Dryers will connect across the 2 hot legs to derive 240 volts while RVs, using the same outlet, wired the same, will connect from each hot leg to the neutral, furnishing 2 circuits of 120 volts. RVs, so far, do not connect across the 2 hot legs for a single 240 volt circuit (there may be some high end coaches doing that now that I'm not aware of).

Charlie D. wrote:

schlep1967 wrote:
I have this one. 50 amp receptacle
It closes over the cord and the breaker is right there so you can turn it off before hooking/unhooking.

Get this and you can ignore the rest of the suggestions being put forth. One neat and clean installation.

I agree. The extra 20 amp receptacles come in very handy for all kinds of things not just RV related.

Charlie D. wrote:

schlep1967 wrote:
I have this one. 50 amp receptacle
It closes over the cord and the breaker is right there so you can turn it off before hooking/unhooking.

Get this and you can ignore the rest of the suggestions being put forth. One neat and clean installation.

NOTHING wrong with that but if all the guy wants to do is plug in his 50a RV then there are many less expensive alternatives.

The one I showed is cheap and will do the job just fine.

ScottG wrote:
Suggest you get the outlet box in MetalGator's post. Tell your electrician it is a 240V Range outlet (because that's what it is), not a drier outlet which is different and not what you want.

"Modern" dryer outlet. Or oven is the same.

Enerlites 50a Dryer Outlet 66500 | NEMA 14-50R, for Electric Vehicles, Welding, Electrical Ranges, Outdoor and Indoor, 3-Pole, 4 Wire (8, 6, 4 AWG), Female Plug, UL Listed | 125/250V - White