Insulating old Class B without ripping everything out?

Question

I got a 1982 Dodge Xplorer 228 camper van a few years ago with only 30,000 miles on it for $3,000. Since then I've probably put about $6,000 into it. I knew it'd need some work but ****! Things keep building up. Now I've discovered black mold. So I'm going to fix that the best I can with an ozone generator, hepa filter, mold fogger, and some vinegar. Luckily (glass half full) there is no insulation in the walls so the fogger should be able to flow behind the walls freely. But that means I'm going to have to put new insulation after I'm done.
So that brings me to my question. How should I go about insulating behind the walls and the ceiling? I'll post some pictures of my van if that helps.
Right now I'm thinking the best thing is drilling some holes and then injecting spray foam into the cavity.

dick_b · Answer

Some of the fixit shows sprayed cellulose into the cavities. Drill two holes; one near the top and one near the bottom. Inject the cellulose into the bottom and stop when it comes out the top hole.

daboognish88 · Answer

I also want to know is this even a good idea to do in a van? Will there inevitably be pockets that the spray doesn't expand into thus creating pockets for moisture to get trapped in.. causing the same problem all over again?

daboognish88 · Answer

And what about wires that are running through the wall? I've heard that you can just pull and fish them back out of the insulation even after its cured around it. Is this true? Is there a better solution?

valhalla360 · Answer

Probably a lot cheaper to burn a little extra propane to keep it warm (air/con to keep cool).

If you just like projects, have at it but sounds like you are at the point where it doesn't make financial sense to keep stringing it along.

hammerboy · Answer

Dick_B wrote:Some of the fixit shows sprayed cellulose into the cavities. Drill two holes; one near the top and one near the bottom. Inject the cellulose into the bottom and stop when it comes out the top hole.The problem is the dry blown in cellulose settles over time in a stationary structure like a house, imagine what is going to happen when your bouncing down the road.  Wet blown cellulose typically doesn't settle but that installed usually with open walls but that would settle too in this situation I would think.  Another thought is to use the foam in a can that is meant for doors and windows, DO NOT use the type for big gaps etc., that will push things around in a bad way.  That is a thought and maybe not a good one at that, could be real messy and take a lot of cans not to mention if you ever have to fish anything in the walls it become a PITA.Dan

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Insulating old Class B without ripping everything out?

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