Jordan 2000-2020 users, need advice
Been away for quite a while. Thanks in advance for your time. Having used my Jordan for over 10 years (and COMPLETELY satisfied with it), I'm starting to have an issue with it. I've just bought a n...
Forum Discussion
My preference is for a P2 or P3, I have a P3
I'll never break open my braking system for anything, as the intrusion of a
potential failure point is something not worth it to me. Plus view the various
videos on installation and then if you are not braking system savvy, as a ASE
brake mechanic about bleeding that 'new' line and the old line where the 'T'
is inserted.
Since you have a Suburban and that nifty brake pedal switch, you can have the
controller turn on the trailer brakes B E F O R E any of the
other controllers...except for the Jordan
Here is a link to a HOW2 for a GMT400 Suburban (your 04 is a GMT800), but assume
GM did not change that nifty switch
1996 Suburban tow harness
That switch clicks over (turns on the controller) in less than 1/64" movement
of the brake pedal...way B E F O R E it ever moves the MC piston rod.
Therefore initiates the trailer brakes B E F O R E any MC hydraulic PSI
sensed
I looked at the Jordan when it first came out and decided my old Hayes was okay
Didn't like the wire and the potential for me to snag is while underneath working
on whatever
That wire gets the controller initiated before the pedal moves the MC piston
rod and then proportional to the travel
The P2/P3 does that too with the GM brake pedal switch to get it turned on before
the MC develops PSI, but the difference is the inertia system inside the controller
then takes over sensing deceleration
That deceleration is based on the setup (presets) you dialed in
All the folks I've helped who asked had both their controller setup out of wack
and that their brakes on both the TV and trailer not tuned well.
The hardest to setup/adjust are the brake pedals that use a 'door bell' (plunger)
switch mounted on a bracket. Usually bend that bracket but the transition from
on to off has more hysteresis because of the snap switch itself. False initiation
is that issue
I can stop the whole setup without ever initiating the Suburban's
braking system. Just touch it to tell the controller to turn on the
trailer brakes and it will stop the whole setup. If I want to stop a
bit faster, then press further to initiate the Suburbans brakes
There is no one size fits all...even in socks... :) The P3 is best for 'me'...
Good luck
I'll never break open my braking system for anything, as the intrusion of a
potential failure point is something not worth it to me. Plus view the various
videos on installation and then if you are not braking system savvy, as a ASE
brake mechanic about bleeding that 'new' line and the old line where the 'T'
is inserted.
Since you have a Suburban and that nifty brake pedal switch, you can have the
controller turn on the trailer brakes B E F O R E any of the
other controllers...except for the Jordan
Here is a link to a HOW2 for a GMT400 Suburban (your 04 is a GMT800), but assume
GM did not change that nifty switch
1996 Suburban tow harness
That switch clicks over (turns on the controller) in less than 1/64" movement
of the brake pedal...way B E F O R E it ever moves the MC piston rod.
Therefore initiates the trailer brakes B E F O R E any MC hydraulic PSI
sensed
I looked at the Jordan when it first came out and decided my old Hayes was okay
Didn't like the wire and the potential for me to snag is while underneath working
on whatever
That wire gets the controller initiated before the pedal moves the MC piston
rod and then proportional to the travel
The P2/P3 does that too with the GM brake pedal switch to get it turned on before
the MC develops PSI, but the difference is the inertia system inside the controller
then takes over sensing deceleration
That deceleration is based on the setup (presets) you dialed in
All the folks I've helped who asked had both their controller setup out of wack
and that their brakes on both the TV and trailer not tuned well.
The hardest to setup/adjust are the brake pedals that use a 'door bell' (plunger)
switch mounted on a bracket. Usually bend that bracket but the transition from
on to off has more hysteresis because of the snap switch itself. False initiation
is that issue
I can stop the whole setup without ever initiating the Suburban's
braking system. Just touch it to tell the controller to turn on the
trailer brakes and it will stop the whole setup. If I want to stop a
bit faster, then press further to initiate the Suburbans brakes
There is no one size fits all...even in socks... :) The P3 is best for 'me'...
Good luck
