Jordan 2000-2020 users, need advice
Been away for quite a while. Thanks in advance for your time. Having used my Jordan for over 10 years (and COMPLETELY satisfied with it), I'm starting to have an issue with it. I've just bought a n...
Forum Discussion
Don't remember which thread on a GMT800's not able to transfer weight
to the front axle, but generally it is the OEM receiver...all things
equal
A very poor design and some also have very poor manufacturing and quality
control
At about $200 bucks for a new traditional design receiver, I'd try that
first and if I did respond earlier, that is my standard recommendation
Plus about 1 hours work to remove and install
A link to that old thread would refresh me
The issue with the GMT800 receiver is that it bends and flexes so
that the WD Hitch system runs out of spring travel. I use the term
'consume' trying to get folks to understand, but lots of rocks get
tossed at me for that, so I did not mention that... :W
Back on the Jordon...
One large factor in my decision to pass on the Jordon decades ago is
with my guess on what linear sensor they employed
Never found out, but didn't try that hard either.
From the very expensive Farand type of transducers to a linear gear
that, that wire moves that has a spur gear mounted on a potentiometer
is my guess
If a Pot, then is it precision wire or carbon. If carbon, then those
things don't last long both from wear and oxidation. A shot of contact
cleaner & lube normally solves an oxidation issue...temporally. If worn,
only a new pot will solve that
If a solid state transducer, then finding a supplier will be an issue
They may have made up their own and if me, I'd have a strip with graduated
lines that a LED shines on and a receiver reads the number of lines,
rate of change and direction of change. That would require the OEM
(Jordon) to supply a new one
The comment of 'whacking' the controller says that this most likely
if whacking does get it going for a bit
If in the harnesses and connectors, then standard DVM & a 12VDC lead/probe (loooooooong) divide and conquer methodology works well
As mentioned, LED's don't take much power and a ground loop in the
trailer will be high on my list, but a really tough one to find and
fix. Another is noise and just as hard to find and fix (well might
be a bit easier if noise and some sort of filtering at the Jordon
might work...but why should that be necessary)
Yes, my setups brake seamlessly and no jerking. Note I no longer own
but borrow trailers (from TT's to utility). Some do have less than
smooth, but they all smoothed out after manually adjusting their brakes
There is no magic to this and all to do with timing of the sequencing
of inputs to the controller. Most all controller 'should' look very
similar in logic diagram.
It is the type of input sensors they employ and how they have their
logic or truth tables setup to manage those inputs
Again, I'll not touch my braking hydraulics for this. You are competent
and so am I, but not ASE certified....but...look at the videos and
documentation on the MC fluid sensed. They do NOT instruct to bleed
down to the wheels of 'that' line. Just to the new sensor stub line
And that they have a cantilevered sensor line that some have gone to
using a tie wrapping...silly that the customers figured that one out
and the OEM did not and still does not recommend (as of the last time
I looked at their documentation)
to the front axle, but generally it is the OEM receiver...all things
equal
A very poor design and some also have very poor manufacturing and quality
control
At about $200 bucks for a new traditional design receiver, I'd try that
first and if I did respond earlier, that is my standard recommendation
Plus about 1 hours work to remove and install
A link to that old thread would refresh me
The issue with the GMT800 receiver is that it bends and flexes so
that the WD Hitch system runs out of spring travel. I use the term
'consume' trying to get folks to understand, but lots of rocks get
tossed at me for that, so I did not mention that... :W
Back on the Jordon...
One large factor in my decision to pass on the Jordon decades ago is
with my guess on what linear sensor they employed
Never found out, but didn't try that hard either.
From the very expensive Farand type of transducers to a linear gear
that, that wire moves that has a spur gear mounted on a potentiometer
is my guess
If a Pot, then is it precision wire or carbon. If carbon, then those
things don't last long both from wear and oxidation. A shot of contact
cleaner & lube normally solves an oxidation issue...temporally. If worn,
only a new pot will solve that
If a solid state transducer, then finding a supplier will be an issue
They may have made up their own and if me, I'd have a strip with graduated
lines that a LED shines on and a receiver reads the number of lines,
rate of change and direction of change. That would require the OEM
(Jordon) to supply a new one
The comment of 'whacking' the controller says that this most likely
if whacking does get it going for a bit
If in the harnesses and connectors, then standard DVM & a 12VDC lead/probe (loooooooong) divide and conquer methodology works well
As mentioned, LED's don't take much power and a ground loop in the
trailer will be high on my list, but a really tough one to find and
fix. Another is noise and just as hard to find and fix (well might
be a bit easier if noise and some sort of filtering at the Jordon
might work...but why should that be necessary)
Yes, my setups brake seamlessly and no jerking. Note I no longer own
but borrow trailers (from TT's to utility). Some do have less than
smooth, but they all smoothed out after manually adjusting their brakes
There is no magic to this and all to do with timing of the sequencing
of inputs to the controller. Most all controller 'should' look very
similar in logic diagram.
It is the type of input sensors they employ and how they have their
logic or truth tables setup to manage those inputs
Again, I'll not touch my braking hydraulics for this. You are competent
and so am I, but not ASE certified....but...look at the videos and
documentation on the MC fluid sensed. They do NOT instruct to bleed
down to the wheels of 'that' line. Just to the new sensor stub line
And that they have a cantilevered sensor line that some have gone to
using a tie wrapping...silly that the customers figured that one out
and the OEM did not and still does not recommend (as of the last time
I looked at their documentation)
