Jordan 2000-2020 users, need advice
Been away for quite a while. Thanks in advance for your time. Having used my Jordan for over 10 years (and COMPLETELY satisfied with it), I'm starting to have an issue with it. I've just bought a n...
Forum Discussion
BenK writes "Back on the Jordon...
One large factor in my decision to pass on the Jordon decades ago is
with my guess on what linear sensor they employed
Never found out, but didn't try that hard either.
From the very expensive Farand type of transducers to a linear gear
that, that wire moves that has a spur gear mounted on a potentiometer
is my guess
If a Pot, then is it precision wire or carbon. If carbon, then those
things don't last long both from wear and oxidation. A shot of contact
cleaner & lube normally solves an oxidation issue...temporally. If worn,
only a new pot will solve that
If a solid state transducer, then finding a supplier will be an issue
They may have made up their own and if me, I'd have a strip with graduated
lines that a LED shines on and a receiver reads the number of lines,
rate of change and direction of change. That would require the OEM
(Jordon) to supply a new one
The comment of 'whacking' the controller says that this most likely
if whacking does get it going for a bit"
Over thinking things.
By overthinking you PASSED up by far THE MOST RELIABLE controller HANDS DOWN. It has performed flawlessly and even has saved my bacon when a deer ran out in front of me while towing at 70 MPH!
The Jordan employs a "pot" which granted does wear out over time. But I would rather risk my life on that pot instead of faulty "firmware" which is nothing more than trickery or worse yet what happens when the third brake light fuse blows (P2, P3 and time based controllers DEPEND on the brake light switch to activate).
My one Jordan finally started giving intermittent issues after 350,000 miles of driving. This controller was transplanted from my first truck which had 150K miles when traded, the second truck now has 200K miles.
To me that is a outstanding life and chances are if I would have disconnected the cable as mentioned in the manual when not towing it would not have developed that issue for many more miles.
For the price of what I paid for the Jordan it was well worth it, you simply can not get such smooth operation with any inertia controllers, period.
My new truck has a factory built in controller, let me tell you the Jordan performs just as good as the built in. When I get a chance I WILL be repairing my Jordan since I kept the old truck as a backup vehicle.
Once you get spoiled by the best you simply do not want to downgrade with a slap it in inertia controller...
One large factor in my decision to pass on the Jordon decades ago is
with my guess on what linear sensor they employed
Never found out, but didn't try that hard either.
From the very expensive Farand type of transducers to a linear gear
that, that wire moves that has a spur gear mounted on a potentiometer
is my guess
If a Pot, then is it precision wire or carbon. If carbon, then those
things don't last long both from wear and oxidation. A shot of contact
cleaner & lube normally solves an oxidation issue...temporally. If worn,
only a new pot will solve that
If a solid state transducer, then finding a supplier will be an issue
They may have made up their own and if me, I'd have a strip with graduated
lines that a LED shines on and a receiver reads the number of lines,
rate of change and direction of change. That would require the OEM
(Jordon) to supply a new one
The comment of 'whacking' the controller says that this most likely
if whacking does get it going for a bit"
Over thinking things.
By overthinking you PASSED up by far THE MOST RELIABLE controller HANDS DOWN. It has performed flawlessly and even has saved my bacon when a deer ran out in front of me while towing at 70 MPH!
The Jordan employs a "pot" which granted does wear out over time. But I would rather risk my life on that pot instead of faulty "firmware" which is nothing more than trickery or worse yet what happens when the third brake light fuse blows (P2, P3 and time based controllers DEPEND on the brake light switch to activate).
My one Jordan finally started giving intermittent issues after 350,000 miles of driving. This controller was transplanted from my first truck which had 150K miles when traded, the second truck now has 200K miles.
To me that is a outstanding life and chances are if I would have disconnected the cable as mentioned in the manual when not towing it would not have developed that issue for many more miles.
For the price of what I paid for the Jordan it was well worth it, you simply can not get such smooth operation with any inertia controllers, period.
My new truck has a factory built in controller, let me tell you the Jordan performs just as good as the built in. When I get a chance I WILL be repairing my Jordan since I kept the old truck as a backup vehicle.
Once you get spoiled by the best you simply do not want to downgrade with a slap it in inertia controller...
