Jordan 2000-2020 users, need advice
Been away for quite a while. Thanks in advance for your time. Having used my Jordan for over 10 years (and COMPLETELY satisfied with it), I'm starting to have an issue with it. I've just bought a n...
Forum Discussion
Steve...I'm semi-retired taking care of mom (Hospice) so for now, lots
of time to no time and glad to do this...therapeutic in a way for me
That old thread a bit long for my time available at this time...later
on that
Ah, went to that link posted by Gdetrailer and see that Jordon made
their own switch...tough in the limited quantities of 'this' product
The wiping action is common to all contacts. Whether hundreds of amperes
to milli-amperes. Hard gold for low voltage (signal) is also common and
the great debate on that is how thick...I like 5 microns as a min
Also, a carbon pot and haven't seen nor heard of a linear pot in decades
Personally, if these kinds of things necessary to keep the Jordon
going...it high time to look for a replacement. Very old technology
and sure it is simple, but also fraught with potential issues that
might show up at the wrong time(s)
Bending the switch arms, sanding down contacts, scraping off oxidation, etc
is a been there done that decades ago and also know how quickly their
issues comes back. The biggie is not if, but when...
Using the GM OEM brake switch solves that for me, as in this class
of OEM and products (assume GM does not make it like they used to make
just about everything, but outsourced and that there is a PO with a
detailed specification and most likely based on that switch OEM's
base line or product line specification)
That should have a MTBF in the millions of cycles at load (specified)
Maybe tens of millions or more
I got tossed out of a Detroit design center about 20 years ago. Sales
folks asked my Sunlabs team to install and test a custom CPU module
to run a CAD program head to head.
Since their Program Manager, I didn't have much to do, so wandered and
found a young kid loading up a switch spec and noticed all he was doing
was changing the spec from 5 microns hard gold to 2 microns...asked and
he said his boss said to do that for all of the switch from all of
their suppliers...explained why 5 microns is the 'gold' standard and
he understood...meanwhile his boss came over and got pretty steamed
at me...
A bit later found another group changing wire gauges and to a non AWG
but their own...ditto...to save money, but willy-nilly without engineering
thought...different boss and the group manager got wind and had me
escorted out of the building...
Knew from then on that, that Detroit OEM would have more electrical
fires than the others...
Anyway, just about any controller can be reworked and made 'almost'
like new, but why bother with a huge safety component when very affordable
replacements abound
Again, there is no 'one size fits all' here. I do NOT like the MC PSI
sensed. Both from their lack of fastidiousness of design and instruction
Nor does that design, unless they also use the brake pedal switch as
their initial sense, gets the controller turned on sooner than my P3
Nor can they stop the whole setup without ever developing MC PSI like
my setup can.
Again, unless they have a brake pedal switch sense like mine...but then
why touch the MC hydraulic system?
Yet again, most who complain about jerking/banging/etc to me and I've
had the chance to hands on (even a few via email instructions) find
that their braking system (not the controller) is not setup right. Mainly
their trailer braking system not up to snuff and includes electrical
harness/connector and the biggie...the magnets
I'll comment on the GMT800 receiver, but am almost positive it is the
POS receiver needing replacement with a traditional deisgn
of time to no time and glad to do this...therapeutic in a way for me
That old thread a bit long for my time available at this time...later
on that
Ah, went to that link posted by Gdetrailer and see that Jordon made
their own switch...tough in the limited quantities of 'this' product
The wiping action is common to all contacts. Whether hundreds of amperes
to milli-amperes. Hard gold for low voltage (signal) is also common and
the great debate on that is how thick...I like 5 microns as a min
Also, a carbon pot and haven't seen nor heard of a linear pot in decades
Personally, if these kinds of things necessary to keep the Jordon
going...it high time to look for a replacement. Very old technology
and sure it is simple, but also fraught with potential issues that
might show up at the wrong time(s)
Bending the switch arms, sanding down contacts, scraping off oxidation, etc
is a been there done that decades ago and also know how quickly their
issues comes back. The biggie is not if, but when...
Using the GM OEM brake switch solves that for me, as in this class
of OEM and products (assume GM does not make it like they used to make
just about everything, but outsourced and that there is a PO with a
detailed specification and most likely based on that switch OEM's
base line or product line specification)
That should have a MTBF in the millions of cycles at load (specified)
Maybe tens of millions or more
I got tossed out of a Detroit design center about 20 years ago. Sales
folks asked my Sunlabs team to install and test a custom CPU module
to run a CAD program head to head.
Since their Program Manager, I didn't have much to do, so wandered and
found a young kid loading up a switch spec and noticed all he was doing
was changing the spec from 5 microns hard gold to 2 microns...asked and
he said his boss said to do that for all of the switch from all of
their suppliers...explained why 5 microns is the 'gold' standard and
he understood...meanwhile his boss came over and got pretty steamed
at me...
A bit later found another group changing wire gauges and to a non AWG
but their own...ditto...to save money, but willy-nilly without engineering
thought...different boss and the group manager got wind and had me
escorted out of the building...
Knew from then on that, that Detroit OEM would have more electrical
fires than the others...
Anyway, just about any controller can be reworked and made 'almost'
like new, but why bother with a huge safety component when very affordable
replacements abound
Again, there is no 'one size fits all' here. I do NOT like the MC PSI
sensed. Both from their lack of fastidiousness of design and instruction
Nor does that design, unless they also use the brake pedal switch as
their initial sense, gets the controller turned on sooner than my P3
Nor can they stop the whole setup without ever developing MC PSI like
my setup can.
Again, unless they have a brake pedal switch sense like mine...but then
why touch the MC hydraulic system?
Yet again, most who complain about jerking/banging/etc to me and I've
had the chance to hands on (even a few via email instructions) find
that their braking system (not the controller) is not setup right. Mainly
their trailer braking system not up to snuff and includes electrical
harness/connector and the biggie...the magnets
I'll comment on the GMT800 receiver, but am almost positive it is the
POS receiver needing replacement with a traditional deisgn
