Looking for opinions on tow bars

We use the NSA Ready Brute Elite towbar and brake setup along with their emergency breakaway switch on our 200* Jeep JK Sahara. My wife and I installed the whole setup ourselves and it was relatively easy. Lifetime warranty on the towbar and pretty straightforward to use. Works well, priced right (around $1200 for entire setup) (not including baseplate). Highly recommend the NSA system.

Another vote for the NSA ReadyBrute Elite combined tow bar and brake system. The all-terrain (non-binding) tow bar is aluminum and rated at 8,000 lbs.

Since you are in Eugene, a 2 hour drive North puts you in Vancouver, WA--the home of Roadmaster. If you are thinking about a Roadmaster setup, you might want to think about having the factory do the instal instead of a RV service center.

Demco Commander lightweight and 6500 pound capacity.

I have have only used one for about 16 years now. A Demco Aluminiator never had a problem with it.

T18skyguy wrote:
OK a question. What happens when a tow bar binds? Any way to tell a binding from a non binding ?

A tow bar usually binds when the towed vehicle and the motorhome are not on the same plain. Essentially the tow bar is being twisted and the pins will be tight in the bore making them difficult to remove.

Most tow bars today are of the non-binding variety. The end at the motorhome is on a swivel to prevent twisting. The locking mechanisms on the bars have grooves cut so that they can still be activated whether or not the motorhome and the towed vehicle are level to one another.

Usually the manufacturer identifies these units as "All Terrain".

We currently use a Roadmaster Sterling All Terrain. Our original was a Sterling. It was the predecessor to the All Terrain model. The locking grooves in the bars were square cut. Essentially the lock dropped into a slot. The newer All Terrain series has a more tapered groove keeping the lock from binding.

There are still situations where a "non-binding" tow bar will bind. The most common situation is when the motorhome has been turned sharply and the wheels on the towed vehicle are hitting the turn stops.

They're not fool proof, but will tolerate a much greater difference in angles of the motorhome and towed vehicle.

Check out NSA ReadyBrute. Towbar and integrated surge brake. Lighter system than many, less expensive supplemental brake system. Tough to find many negative comments - simple system that just works!

I found a Blue Ox Aventa II on craigs list along with an iRV2 brake for $900. They were the final memories of an older gent who got too old to RV. I though he was going to cry.

I spent another $50 on new washers, nuts and boots from Blue Ox. Those and a rattle can of black Rustoleum and it's like having a brand new bar.

For many years, on several different Jeeps and pickups, I used a Reese fixed arm/adjustable width 5000 lb. capacity towbar.
To hear some people on these forums tell it, such a bar was the worst thing ever invented, impossible to hook up by oneself, and often impossible to disconnect.
Oddly enough, I seldom had a problem with it. It just did the job it was designed to do, and did it quite well!
IMO, it all boils down to two issues:
1. The budget one has to work within (that Reese towbar is now about $165 at Walmart).
and
2. Personal preference.

When the day came when I needed more than the 5000 lb. capacity, I was lucky enough to find a Roadmaster Stowmaster 6000 lb. capacity telescoping arm unit on CL for $250. It did exactly the same job as the inexpensive Reese unit did. It was slightly easier to hook up and unhook, but, IMO, nothing to get excited about. The fact that it folded up on the front of the truck was nice, though.
I still have it, hanging on the wall in the shop. I suppose I should sell it, but I might need it again! It isn't taking up much space out there...

OK a question. What happens when a tow bar binds? Any way to tell a binding from a non binding ?